Hi all. I no this has probably bin covered loads of times but I can't seem to find anything useful. I'm trying to higher the rear of my bus from its ridiculous low ride. Could someone give me a step by step guide with pics if possible to how to do it. Thanks everyone
i have no pic,s but if i pm you my number i,ll go through step by step how to do it it,s a ball ach !! i now have to lower mine after all my hard work its not easy i can tell you
There should be a How-to for this - most I've read tell you to take far more apart than necessary. I might, but no pics.
I wouldnt put this down as acurate on old torsion bars but it gives you a idea in relation to what you want to achive http://www.partsemporium.co.uk/LOWERINGINFOHOWMANYSPLINES.htm
I fitted adjustable springplates to mine the other day and reminded myself. Together with Burntout's link for the mm's it's this easy... These instructions are for a 2-3" max drop, any more and it gets more complicated. Lots of writing and not to much doing. I like to explain a bit rather than give blind instructions. But before you start, now is a good time to see if your rear wheel tracking is about right. If it's way out chances are someone slid the back end into a kerb bending the diagonal arm which will need replacing - this crash also messes the camber up. If it's a little bit out, you can make an allowance as you put back together. simple way and this is NOT accurate, is to hold something about 6-8ft against the tyre and see how it compares to the sill. it should be parallel. Do the check to both sides - maybe just one side is out and if so you need to know which. Write down/sketch your findings. So here we go: Jack up axle stand remove wheel. Remove bottom shock bolt. Clamp flexi brake line and remove solid line from flexi to hub (this passes through the springplate. You'll find it easier to remove brake pipe from cylinder if you take out the bleed nipple first. Don't worry if you push the brakeline gommet through the hole - it'll fall out in a minute. Scratch a line from top to bottom on the springplate to mark the position of the hub. You may find it's obvious where it sat when you disassemble but better safe than sorry. Remove the four bolts holding the plate to the hub. The whole assembly will swing down and you want 4"-8" substantial "thing" to land it on so you don't stress the cv's or the handbrake cable. I use chunks of wood but anything strong will do. It won't wobble about and easy to balance on the wood, but it's quite heavy so be ready to catch it when you take the bolts out. Remove the torsion bar cover. Using lump hammer and sharp bolster, mark springplate and torsion bar as your reference. Don't use stickers or anything that will EVER rub off. This very important. With this reference you could take out the torsion bar and springplate, shut your eyes, juggle them and still easily get back to where you started. Without you are more or less stuffed if anything goes wrong. Place trolly jack under end of plate and jack to it's just clear of the stop it's sitting on. Prise plate of torsion bar. It the bar is coming out with the plate, bash it back in with something jammed behind the springplate. When clear of the stop, let the jack down and pull off the springplate. At this point replace the rubber bushes with the ones you bought ready. No grease on these. Move it up one notch for approx 55mm drop. Or whatever you're doing - might be raising or levelling it - use Burntout's link if appropriate to your van - I haven't checked because I don't know what van you have. Replace the cover. Legend has it you may need a couple of long bolts to pull it in enought to get 2 regular bolts started, then remove your long ones etc. I've never needed to do this. If you do they are M8 despite the 15mm head size. 40mm will be more than long enough. Lift up the hub assembly and bolt it on using your marks. Get all bolts nearly tight getting top and bottom lined up with your mark not only sets the tracking, but the camber as well - you'll have to lift the rear to twist it round - you'll see when you do it. Now is the time to make an adjustment to the tracking if you found it needed it. This is rough remember, but if it was out, it'll be better. Me? When we get to the end, I start again with tracking guages if needed... I suspect the lowered vans with splayed out wheels and inner tyre wear missed some of this lot out. Put the brake pipe back and the grommet and bleed. Reattach the shock or replace if you're replacing. Pull (literally) the bumpstop off and hacksaw off the end blob or you won't have much suspension movement. Refit it. Put wheel back on, drop her down and admire your work. 8) it'll look and handle better if you do both sides. Hope I didn't forget anything.
Why, I here you ask is it always outer splines? The simple answer is that you can't mark/see mark on inner ones, so you have to remember where you are. There's no reason not to. When you have prised the plate out and let the jack down, note where it points, rotate it up a spline and you'll see it moves a long way so it's easy to put back to stock if you have the marks whether you do inner or outer.
