I've got three old pieces of braided pipe which I don't understand. The first is on the air filter pictured below. It's the u shaped bit on top. It's now covered in paint and I want to replace it but it's thinner than the 5.5mm fuel lines I've been replacing. What is it for and can I replace it with anything that will fit? There is also a short straight piece coming out of the intake manifold (left side) as it rises to the carb mount and another on the left side of the 34 pict Solex carb. I guess these are capping unused outlets is that right? If so what were the outlets for? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The capped loop should be two pipes. One from manifold spigot to top of oil bath. The other from top of oil bath to actuator under the intake nose of oil bath. Then a 50 mm air hose to stove pipe hot air pickup as you have will actually suck hot air from the cylinder head when the ambient air is under 30 deg C. The thing on top of the cleaner is a thermally actuated vacuum valve. The pipe from the carburettor goes to the vacuum advance canister on the distributor. Another pipe from the centre top of the engine bay ,the fuel tank breather pipe connects to the side of the air cleaner .
Aaah! Great coloured diagram. I now have a centrifuge dizzy so that explains that part. Back in 2000 when I bought the van a kiwi guy called Grant from Jacks Garage at Latimer Road in London adapted the air filter by removing the round thing underneath and welding a plate inside (photo below) I'm sure he told me why at the time but I can't remember. Can you guess why he did it and was it a good idea? He seemed like a proper decent specialist to me at the time but what did I know? It's run pretty well since then mind. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Photo not great. The welded plate goes back at c.45deg from the welded edge into the widening of the intake tube. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok think re-reading the post linked above has answered the what part. It forces warm air from the stovepipe up and into the carburettor all the time rather than by control of that diaphragm valve (funny round thing).
That sounds about right. Ideally you need the flap working as engines don't like breathing hot air. The 'stat, if it's duff, should still be available.
A bit like the 'disengage the thermostat' theory that seems to divide people. I'd prefer it was working properly but it's probably staying welded. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
He saw you coming. Not the best idea. Go and get another one because that one feeds too much hot air at high rpm - stock feeds hot only at lower rpm as the flap pops shut as manifold vacuum drops at wide open throttle. Along with the centrifugal distributor that makes a bus accellerate even worse than stock.. 009 distributors are for lighter cars like Beetles where the RPM picks up without needing extra timing advance to deliver torque when you need it with another tonne of metal to push. The vacuum capsule on mine snapped but I was able to make a piece of stainless welding wire into a spring that joined the broken bits together.. Sounds like the specialist was good at Beetles.
I'll be pleased to have something else to do when I get the van back out in the spring... (That's replacing the air filter and distributor more than the canapés) For the moment I'm not getting fuel to the distributor. It's going into the fuel pump but not making it to the inline filter between pump and carb. I guess it must be the pump but what could have happened to it while it sat in a paper bag for 6 weeks? Still they're pretty cheap, I just seem to be making online orders everyday.
I wouldn't pipe fuel to the distributor - there's your problem Remove - at once - the filter between the pump and carb. If it melts, you'll have fuel under pressure squirting all around your engine bay, including into that nice sparky distributor. Under the tank, please, where God intended it to be...
PS Have you got the in and out of the pump the right way round? In at the top, out at the bottom. Like people.
Ok thanks for the advice I'll remove the filter. I was just replacing one that was always there. At least it did help me identify why the engine wasn't firing or at least one of the reasons. Yes the lines are plumbed right. I didn't take off the one to the carb so I couldn't have mixed them up. I've turned it by key and by hand and there's no fuel into the filter but it's flowing just before the pump. For £20 and not too much effort I'll change the pump I suppose.
As a quick test, pull the pipe off the carb (still connected to the pump) and turn the engine over again. Fuel should emerge in spurts.
I removed the filter and attached the pipe between it and the carb directly to the pump and it started first time. Happy days. It's like it was agreeing about the filter . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Top job. Your filter's pointing seriously uphill, with a big chamber that's unlikely to fill with fuel. I'd doubt if much fuel was getting through to the carb.
