Reading the install guide for the Propex HS2000, they recommend using a qualified installer etc. How many of those that have one fitted (or similar gas based heater) used a qualified installer?
Installed my own but had it serviced and checked by Propex prior to fitting. Pipe and electrical runs need serious consideration for rubbing or flexing but it it's not rocket science , decent DIY skills will get you there . One thing I will point out is I have no sense of smell so bought a cheapo gas sniffer to detect any leaks - So far so good Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Fitted mine under rear seat and later moved it between seats…. still alive after about 10 years (occasional) use …. found it too noisy and powerful for heating when stood, use it when travelling in n spring and autumn.
Mine's under the rear seat, and was installed in the field at techenders. Been in for about 6 years now, and all is fine. I've got a 'bar' of gas taps, as the oven, hob, fridge, and propex are all gas powered... one hose in from the cylinder, with four out to the appliances (mostly metal, but hose to the hob).
Stealth kit is good for lowering the noise mine is whisper quiet as the advertise ( not really that quiet but not bad)
Yes you can and theyeven sell a special mounting bracket for the exhaust and intakes so avoid being blown out whilst driving although mine is fine without it
QUOTE="DamonW, post: 1953901, member: 30945"]Yes you can and theyeven sell a special mounting bracket for the exhaust and intakes so avoid being blown out whilst driving although mine is fine without it[/QUOTE]
If I were you and didn't know such basics, I'd get someone with suitable experience to fit it for you.
With a lot of help and advice at Techenders last year I managed to fit one to my bus a few weeks later on the road outside my house! All good and if I can do it, anyone can!
Thanks for the reply @Zed (even if IMO it was very condescending). To be more explicit with my question as I'm not a gas engineer. From the Propex to the gas canister, should it be metal pipework from the Propex all the way to the rubber pipe on the gas regulator? (the Propex guide says that 'The gas supply should be connected with copper gas pipe with an isolating valve and all connections made with brass compression fittings fitted with copper olives')
Sorry, it wasn't meant to be. Just... it's gas and I feel if a person was confident they wouldn't be here asking questions and if not confident... it's gas, best play safe.
Thanks for your reply @Zed - much appreciated. I'm confident I can do it, but just checking with people that have to make sure that I've understood the whole process correctly (I'm the cautious type, but capable of doing most things).
@Marty SmartyCat ,Not at all intending to be condescending, fyi our propex instal runs thus: Externally refillable gas bottle mounted in a sealed and floor vented gas locker behind driver's seat (LHD). Pigtail in and pigtail out from bottle mounted shut off valve...you don't really want to be driving with gas bottle valves open, but that's just my opinion. Both pigtails are appropriately rated, sized and date stamped flexy hoses to allow for in motion movement of bottle. Pigtail out goes to a bulkhead mounted regulator with built in test point for manometer connection. Off the regulator is a hard piped manifold feeding 3 bullfinch cut off valves. We have valves for each appliance, so that's propex, gas hob and external BBQ point. Each appliance can be isolated in case of failure or for service. Bullfinch to the propex (your specific interest) uses clipped solid pipe of the appropriate size. You need to be aware of the differences between metric and imperial gas fittings because some retailers will tell you they are compatible. They are not. Whatever pipe you use, use the appropriated matched fittings. It's good practise to keep connections to a minimum and then have a competent person test the system with the correct test kit. (Hence manometer point). The test will highlight issues with gas tightness within appliances and is not just spraying some soapy liquid on a connection to see if it blows bubbles. That's half a job! You may or may not be that person and the point is this is an open forum of have-a-go people and no-one wants to be responsible for some fool gassing themselves due to a misinterpreted reply. I'm sure you aren't that fool but we never know. One of the challenges we have on the forum is the lack of a leisure lpg qualified Gas Safe engineer plus the rather unspecific gas guidelines for camper vans. My pet hate subject. Because (same as Zed) we live on a narrow boat. Gas safety is subject to rather more strict regulation coz believe it or not people do manage to CO poison themselves. This is despite the amount of information available to them and coz they short cut stuff. Don't be that person. Whatever you do, get it validated...then again it's your choice
I don't think that was condescending really! Its just Steve warning against the inherent dangers of natural selection. Try asking about mains hook up kits. That discussion gets interesting and nobbers like me get all excited lol!! If you have to ask for reassurance that's one thing (which is i think where your coming from) and if you have the skills that's another (if so were winning so far). As you've quoted the instructions then id follow them.... but yes - you are right the gas bottle connections are flexible hoses so that is misleading. You cant connect a hard line into a gas bottle! So on mine its bottle (valve of course) - flexi hose to isolation valve - copper line direct to propex! nice and simple.
Interesting point regards the gas fittings. My propex is in metric but the rest of the van imperial. I fitted a tee onto my pig tail (naughty) and treated the propex as its own install to get around that!
The threads are close, as are the olives, but they aren't exactly right so we do have instances of folk retro fitting gas bubble testers for example and having leaks. The chandlery here doesn't sell gas fittings any more. It's a minefield of potential bodgery...