push rod tubes

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by redoxide, Nov 12, 2017.

  1. redoxide

    redoxide Guest

    i have a damaged push rod tube. looking at them they are like tin foil and this one appears to have a crack causing the oil leak . Looking at the available replacements there are the stock type... which I have to disregard at this stage as I dont want to remove the engine and tear it apart to fit these.. so looking to do it in situ, The choices are between the two part manual adjustable ones or the various spring loaded types

    Has anyone got any opinions on either type ..

    Any fitting tips for either that might produce a better long lasting leak free seal .... ?

    If the rigid type are used, do they require occasional readjusting to maintain a good seal ?
     
  2. Type 1 engine?
    Type 4 just need to take rockers and pushrods out. Use good quality seals and for a belt n braces approach some blue goo. ( Gone blank and cant for the life of me remember the name of the stuffo_O)
     
  3. Redoxide’s engine is type one ..... you should never put blue goo on type4 ones as they need to slide ( need to super clean and use engine oil )
    I’d probably use a CSP spring loaded tube ....or make my own or fit all new stainless ones over the winter but it is a faff
     
  4. I used a bugpack one til I swapped the heads. It didn't leak or need adjusting once in. Buy the one with three tube seals.

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
     
  5. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    All you ever need to get pushrod tubes to seal on a T1 is to make sure you have cleaned off all the silicone and junk and there are nice clean metal surfaces for the seals to work against.

    Oiling the seal helps it slide into the centre of the shaped hole in the engine.

    Then if its a stock tube make sure it is pulled out to 190 to 191 mm to the ends of the corrugated sections each end to provide pressure on the seals. Wet seals liberally with engine oil before putting them on the tubes and again as you put the heads on. Twiddle the tubes to make sure they are centred in the holes before final tightening, also to get the seam in the tube at the top.

    With aftermaket springy ones oil the seals and twiddle to make sure they are centred. If they are going to be any good the springs should be fairly hard to compress, to match the stock tubes pressure on the seals.
     
  6. ...chemical metal the old tube... just saying.
     
  7. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    They usually rust on the seams, try rotating the tube so the holes at the top
     
    Valveandy likes this.
  8. GARRICK CLARK

    GARRICK CLARK Sponsor

    The NEW steel pushrod tubes are so thin you could probably make a 6 thou feeler gauge out of them to set ya tappets. VERY poor quality.
     
    Razzyh likes this.
  9. Megabug sell adjustable tubes on ebay tenner each,quick fix.
     
  10. I've had this, pain in the backside. Experimented with various and found the gold coloured spring loaded scat branded ones didn't leak at all on a 12000 mile a year commuting engine. Only thing negative is the ends are sharp enough to cut the seals if you are not careful.
     

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