Afternoon all, Getting to the point where I want to get my bus ready for its new engine. By that I mean I want to stiffen it up a bit as it does get battered by the wind. I think this is primarily because my tyres are woefully under-rated so these will be changed in the next couple of weeks. Im also looking at fitting a heavy duty rear anti-roll bar and uprated shocks. Will this make a difference? Are the anti-roll bars bolt on or do they need any cutting or welding? Any advice on decent shocks? Cheers Doug
I'd recommend that you fit the HD front bar to match the rear, they'll be a few along to say it doesn't matter, but in the tuning world it's a big no no to do one and not the other!! Back end wise, they're designed to be a bolt on unit, but I prefer to weld the spreader plates on to beef up the mounting area!! I cut the lip off the chassis rail, then weld the plate in!! Shocks wise, KYB GR2s seem to be pretty good I've got AVOs, but they are adjustable dampening, so you can dial them in
Cheers Paul Weeding I'll go for a replacement front too then. I can't weld so how does that plate fit for the rear? Drill a hole through the chassis lip? Are KYB Gas-A-Just shocks any good or are GR2's better? Cheers
PPS. If I go for the GR2 shocks do I want 385/245mm or 420/265mm? Stock height, no intention of lowering.
Gas A Just shocks seem to be 419/265 front and 565/345 rear? I'm now thoroughly confused. How can a stick height bus use various length shocks? If I want a firmer ride, is longer or shorter best? Cheers
One that covers your suspension travel is best. Gas-a-just are firmer that GR2. GR2 are very similar to the standard oil shocks - I tested them one against the other on the front and couldn't tell the difference. I believe gas-a-just are 30% firmer.
I bought the kit from JK, fitted the front RB, not got round to the rear, need me to drill holes etc... Came with gas adjust shocks, must say it feels and drives much better, I read on ratwell, its OK to do the front only, but not OK to do the rear only....best is obviously to do both... Also came with a weld on front beam adjuster that I haven't used if anyone wants one...
That's what put me off that kit. I'm going to call and see what price I can get without the adjusters.
I figured it was about the same price for all the bits minus the adjuster, so they were throwing that in for free... They are supposed to be about 100 quid... Was shocked when I saw it... Four little bits of metal and a couple of grub screws!
You've got to buy the clamps for the front anti-roll bar separately for some unknown reason. Might see if they'll bung them into the deal. Cheers for your help gents
Make sure you get urethane ones... And be prepared for a fight... The new metal will be the wrong shape... Compare the new ones with the ones you take off...
Shocks, new roll bar, new discs and pads.. About a good afternoon... The main pain was getting the new clamps on the bar... And done is a bit of an overstatement... Still lotrs to do.. Lots to clean... But its on the road and not taking a few years... Just doing bits where and when I can! If your in Bristol, am just down the road... So if you need a hand...
Where abouts are you? Always good to have someone local as a spare pair if hands! I'll get them ordered and give it a go. Cheers for your help mate Doug
