This is going to be a howto based on replacement of rear wheel bearings out side of garage facilities , even in a muddy field at Victoria Farm at Techenders. Replacing rear wheel bearings Although John Muirs book describes the process in some detail there are several points where the description is not totally clear. This is based on when I changed the bearings on my bus and then went to Techenders and helped @daisey1973 change his, by standing beside his bus and giving advice (I had hurt my back the week before when I bounced off a bump in the road in Bouncy Bus). I am going to edit in photographs taken at Techenders : currently what I have here are some diagrams drawn in Libre Office. The required parts: Rear bearing kit comprising two bearings, one of which is a generic ball bearing and the other is a special roller bearing. There should also be an identical pair of oil seals and if you are lucky you will also get a new circlip. There seem to be two types of bearing kit that are around – one is an Elring kit as sold by VWH and the other is a Vetech lucky dip kit sold by VeeWee. I started with an Elring but ended up with VeeWee after making a big mistake. Some may say the VeeWee kit does not fit. But anything can be made to fit with a bigger hammer.. More later. New split pin for rear hub nut. Spare bolts for CV joints if they have not been replaced recently. Required tools. Socket set for general nuts and bolts. Screwdriver for brake adjuster stars Driver for whatever you have holding the outboard CV joint on – a 12 point or a Torx or a hex drive bolt. Also tools to grab heads of chewed socket head bolts, and/or a way of drilling/cutting seriously damaged bolts. Jack for bus. 46mm socket and breaker bar and extension for hub nut Axle Stands for bus. Hard standing or thick ply wood or > 13mm MDF (two thicknesses needed in field) 1kg Club hammer. Drift tool – softish metal bar 10-13mm diameter (we used a very damaged screwdriver) or large diameter flathead punch (probably too hard and vicious) Tough circlip pliers that are intended for internal circlip removal – the one holding the inner bearing on is tough. Pry bar with a curved end – makes it easier to pull the oil seal on the inboard side as there is not much room for a straight tool as it goes into a recessed area. Head torch or similar to see with under the bus. Steps Drink a lot the night before then there will be less fear of the moment when you end up with the bus in a field at Eddy's Farm with @paradox standing there saying that you should never do it like that, with the rear hubs in pieces and no way to get a wrecked new bearing back in. There are certain points of no return unless you are careful and hit the right bit just so. Basically it is easy to trash the old roller bearing so you cannot reuse it if you mess up the new one. The first real step is to undo the hub nut. Depending on the design of your wheels: if they are alloys the amount of metal around the centre of the wheel makes a differfence, on mine they cover the sides of the big nut. If the wheel is thick you you may have to follow an annoying sequence. If you can get the big split pin out of the end of the axle stub and remove the split pin then you do not need to take the wheel off to get to the split pin. If you are an animal, you can just undo the nut and the split pin will give way like cheese, which is apparently their fate if you do not torque up the big nut sufficiently. Otherwise put the handbrake on, remove the wheel, remove the pin. Replace the wheel as you need it for something to push against as you undo the big nut. Put the wheel back on the ground with the weight of the bus on it. If your handbrake is good and the big nut is only on at the correct torque you may just be able to undo the nut with the breaker bar and an extension without too much extra messing especially after using Plus-Gas or similar to free the thread. If the nut is stupidly tight then you can use the axle stand as a big chock to work against as in the picture here of @daisey1973. If you are strong then levering up on the extension bar will work if you also use the axle stand as a big chock. In my case at home I found it would just lift the wheel off the ground and it would start to skid. Eventually the nut will come undone. Otherwise put everything back and drive off to a truck tyre place and ask them to take the nut off and put it back at the correct 250 ft lb. Or you can hacksaw the nut off carefully or use John Muirs cold chisel and a big hammer to drive it round. Then get another nut. Jack up the rear of the bus and put at least one axle stand under the rear suspension tube. Simon removed his shock absorber at this point so he had easier access to the hub area. I did not when I did mine and it did not really get in the way. Before you take the brake drum off, you need to remove the CV joint from the stub axle. This will require your tool of choice to drive the bolts round and then a pair of Mole grips if that fails. If working by yourself you can use your knee on the wheel as a brake to hold the CV joint in place, or you can use the handbrake to lock the axle to undo the bolts – why you dont take the brake drum off yet.. Remove all six bolts. Place CV joint in a bag as it is coated in moly grease and and try to wiggle it out of the way. Tie it up. Ok now you have the nut and the CV joint off now you can take off the wheel, if you have not already, release the handbrake and take off the brake drum. This may be difficult without releasing the brake adjusters. If you have a knackered (bent when using as a lever ..) long screwdriver you can reach the back of the drum through the brake adjuster holes and bang at it from behind, The brake drum should be held on by a pair of 7mm diameter by 12 mm long bolts. The hub assembly is balanced by VW who assume these bolts are fitted as there is a notch opposite the two bolts. If the drum comes off complete with the hub then dont worry as the two are much easier to separate once you have them away from the bus. At this point you either have a brake drum or a hub and drum rusted together in one hand and a bus in the other. If the hub is still attached to the axle then you can put the big nut back on it or put a drift in the dimple in the centre of the axle and tap it in towards the centre. The hub should pull off easily if there is grease around. Otherwise you may need a three leg puller. If you are generally a bit messy, it can be a good idea at this moment to cover over the brake shoes with a plastic bag with a hole in the middle for the axle stub and the bearings. Tape it on . Otherwise random greasy paws will mess up your brake shoes. Take the axle out completely and clean it up. Cross Section of wheel axle stub and bearing with the gearbox on the left.