"No balls at all, no balls at all. Mark felt for his balls, he had no balls at all..." All together now...
The thing is it did have articulation and I've done about 600 miles with that clicking noise. Ah well, one new CV joint to buy. Even the rubber is in perfect nick. I'm wondering if I made the same mistake with any of the others now. I suppose I'll have to replace thus one and see if the clicking/knackle knackle donk has gone.
The trouble with these things is they can be put together incorrectly. I noticed this working on mine. If I recall there is a marked difference in the amount of articulation you get if put together wrong. Again I’m going off memory but I think I copied pictures in the Bentley manual if that’s any help. Stirlingmoz
Agreed , they WILL go together incorrectly and the only difference you'll notice when they're assembled is the articulation - obviously less when they're wrong - probably about half ?? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Big gap faces little gap = good. Nice and symmetrical = bad. If its lowered you can tell straight off, when it's wrong , the joints have to be pulled in with the bolts , they wont just sit flat on the gearbox and axle mating surface..
Yes I thought I'd done big gap facing little gap on all of them, maybe I got one wrong? I'll put a pic of the new one on here before I fit it to check. Hopefully I only got one wrong and there'll be no more clicking! Definitely not lowered.
I'm starting to think there could be another reason for this. The new GKN kit I bought from Brickwerks is really tight when assembled, which I presume is a good thing (?). The four new "Classic Line" CV joints I fitted 600 miles ago were floppy as a very floppy thing and it was a devil of a job when fitting each driveshaft to stop the joints falling apart. Is this normal? I took the n/s driveshaft off today. It was the inner CV joint that had failed. I think the CV joint had been assembled correctly but fitted the wrong way round, as the chamfered edge was of the inner collar was on the outer end, if you get what I mean. I had a look at the outer CV joint, which was so loose the bearings fell out and made taking it apart a non job. It also seems to be wearing on one edge rather than centrally. I'm not happy putting it back together with one tight CV and one floppy one, so I presume I need to buy at least one more tight GKN joint, if not three more!
No that's the thing, this one was on the right way round. They really were so floppy when new, I just thought that's how they're supposed to be. The only good thing is the boots, which seem miles better quality than the GKN boots.
My 2upence...best joints at the moment are GKN Lobro. T3 joints are the same so buy by brand and from whatever supplier gives the best deal. I've bought from Brickwerks and also from Autodoc in the last 6 months. Your choice. The joints won't always be assembled 'correctly' assembled out of the box. Does it matter? Who knows. But I know I'd like them to be so therefore I check and reassemble as required. Boots, those in the GKN/Lobro kits seem to vary in rubber quality. Surprise! Nothing is as it used to be! So choice is to use the boot and possibly replace it in a couple of years when the MOT man pulls it up, or maybe...maybe..fit thermoplastic boots which allegedly have longer life and are pennies but a pain in the hole to replace if they don't live up to expectations! Who knows. @DubCat had one explode, therefore will the other 3 and why was that? All I know is that if you fit what you can afford, do it correctly, and have no expectations then every mile is a bonus
Yes I've got both n/s driveshaft CV joints apart. One that broke and had worn unevenly the other I noted is wearing the same way. I think it's because the kit I bought from JK with the floppy joints is made of cheese.
Thanks Neil. I think I'll order one more now to do both on that shaft. But I worry about having uneven driveshafts or is that nonsense?
I meant that one side with the GKN pair will be tight both ends, the other pair will be floppy both ends.