My current engine was bought cheap to get me out of trouble after my last engine gave up. I'm not happy with it, there was a small amount of end float when I got it, it leaks oil from somewhere underneath, it has low compression etc. I really want to build something basic an reliable that will not make me end up stranded in Europe. If I buy an off the shelf engine I have a number of problems, I still have to fit all the anciliaries and setup the carbs and ignition, external cooling etc. It will mean I have to find a usable case that I can hand in or end up paying £400 extra. A basic long block 1776 will cost £3200 including VAT and however good that is it will be a reused case. My experience so far means I am so distrusting of buying a recon engine from anywhere. My thinking is that if I buy an Autolinea new case, new cam, and have the heads machined then as well as costing less than £3200 there will also be new and more reliable parts used in the build. If the case is new then I assume that I do not have to worry about sizing bearings or any other kind of specialist engineering modifications and analysis. So all the other parts should in theory be sufficient to go into the build? If I had the option to buy a really good 2.0 type 4 engine at a good price right now then yes I would much prefer to do that but I can't just sit and wait and leave my van as it is else I won't have the confidence to take it very far. I like pottering around at 40-50mph and that is often all you can do on coast or smaller roads, but the idea of doing long motorway journeys across the country or Europe at a snails pace is what I really don't enjoy. I have seen that thread suggested and many others like it, the problem is they starting suggesting larger capacity type 1 engines and it is difficult to find concensus on a specification for a simple 1776 engine. I have to at least try and do something now before summer as I am going around in circles and it is really starting to get me down.
You will still have to check bearing clearances, end floats, piston ring gaps, deck heights, compression ratios etc. You’ll also have to inspect all the parts you intend to reuse, including the crankshaft, conrods and heads; everything must be in good condition and within spec. Never assume new parts are correct and will fit without being checked.
I noticed a weird eBay listing also for a rebuilt 2.0L Type 4 engine with cut down T1 cooling (sigh) to fit in a Beetle or sand rail. They wanted £1800 for it because its a bit specialised.. but fitted with all the right bits off a wrecked T4 it could be good.
@Bay Dreamer Did you decide what to do? Start an engine build thread, we can help every step of the way.
Not exactly. I know that I need a new engine and my current one seems to be spraying oil out the filler breather that goes down through the back of the tin wear or somewhere similar and so now it is getting even more messy and leaving oil patches. If I could find a complete 2.0 type 4 engine and 6 rib box I would purchase that and put it in (I am looking about in case there is one). Otherwise I need to build a standard 1776 using as much of my old parts as possible. I am not sure whether to take the plunge and get a new Autolinea case or buy a second hand one and sent it off to see if it can be used and machined. I want to buy a second hand case because I don't know how I can justify £1200 on a new case for a basic build. The number of issues that I am now trying to deal with though is becoming overwhelming. Although my van looks fairly together and I have done a few things to it in my ownership, I need to rebuild pop top including alloy frame, rebuild steering box, build an engine, sort minor welding and rust treatment, resort interior, MOT, fit leisure electrics, get the doors to shut properly, fit better seats etc.
I saw that Kingfisher Customs at Volksworld had a new engine case for £800 and a pile of performance parts , unspecified whatever they were for but had "make me an offer" on the label.. Maybe the case had been clearanced for a bigger crank but that does not stop you building a 69mm stroke 1568, 1641, 1776 etc engine in it... I am definitely getting the engine itch too... Usually when I go to my bus theres something rotten to fix before I get to that point... at the moment its suffering because I have to use it to visit the boatyard and then go over to help clear out my mothers house.. So the miles mount up and the driven in the wet days mount up...
So in the search today for a 2.0 type 4 engine or decent used type 1 case I spoke to someone who helped me probably see some sense. As much as I would love to build a 1776 or fit a type 4 engine, at the moment the cost is going to be huge and it is going to land me in the position of missing the summer in the van again. Although it has been suggested already, I have taken a bit more seriously the idea of just rebuilding the top end with a set of 1641 B&Ps. It was explained to me that the oil now coming out of the breather is likely because the rings are worn and pressurising the crank case, also causing the low compression. I had a look at the usual parts suppliers and of course the Mahle 1641 B&Ps are out of stock with now due date. Heritage have AA branded ones expected in 3 weeks. Does anyone have any experience with these? This rebuild will once again be a semi-temporary step forward until I can build or source a better engine over a long period of time and still be able to use the van. Barrel & Piston Kit 1641cc 87mm x 69mm Cast: AC198870R | Heritage Parts Centre UK
You could just stick a set of standard 1600 B&Ps in, as they're likely to be more available. A 1641 will make minimal difference.
Fair play, you can't rush these things. You should see a good improvement sorting out the top end. You do know it might just need new rings and a barrel hone?
https://www.aircooledhut.co.uk/prod...asted-bore-87-0-mm-stroke-69-0-mm-upper-94-mm worth an email. Used Jason for our 1776cc build.
Even when it comes to the standard 1600 B&Ps I wonder if it is worth going for Mahle (£315) or AA (£180). I mean that is a big difference and if it is just as a semi-temporary engine then I wonder if it is worth just going for the AA ones? I will have to look in the book I bought about how to measure pistons and cylinders to know if they are in spec, I would have thought it is quite difficult because I would imagine wear will be specific to one edge or side? I have seen a video of honing before. Looks really weird like some abrasive balls on an attachment. Do they take off much material when it is honed? As the engine is a recon engine the cylinders would have been changed I guess so just changing rings might be okay.
Honing just puts light scratches on the sides of the cylinders to hold oil against the rings. They're not very deep. You'd likely need to re-hone your existing cylinders anyway. The prices may be the difference between forged and cast pistons. Forged are stronger.
it’s all Chinese anyways . Unless your bottom end is real good just doing top end will have a detrimental effect . Can’t cut corners or cheap out
I've got forged pistons. Cast are fine for the working classes, but one does want something a little better.
