Binding brakes and caliper piston

So I've had a problem with a binding brake on holiday in North Devon recently so I've taken the caliper off the disc and can't retract one of the pistons inside the calliper.

I'm sure that this is causing the brake pad to bind on the disc and I have a couple of questions

I have taken the brake fluid reservoir cap off so it is easier to retract the piston but it still won't come retract, what is the best cheap tool to try and get the retract the piston and is it best to drain the brake fluid and do it on the bench or can I get away with it in situ.


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Looking at the state of the rubber seal on the good side it's it time for a rebuild?



Looking at the Bentley bible on caliper rebuilds it says that a VW442 tool is required to seat the dust seal correctly, is this the case or just belt and braces?

I have already do this trying to retract the little sod! Crappy clamp!!



Thanks

 

DON'T push it any more!
Pump it out, clean and inspect the piston, put new seals on then put it back,

 

buy some new calipers bud.i tossed around with 6 calipers to make 1 good pair last year for the crewcab.the missus devon started binding a couple of months ago so i just put a pair of new calipers on
got them from a local motor factor instead of usual vw parts suppliers
£38 + vat each & no surcharge or old unit return.pair for less than the price of 1

 

Thanks!
What's the best way to push the piston out by the foot brake and I think I've read to do one at a time is that correct and what's the best way to keep the other from coming out?

 

£38! That's cheap, the rebuild kit from VW heritage is close to £20!

 

When I do these I use;

1. A flat blade/plate to go across the single piston
2. 2 short bolts to brace this bar against the inside of the caliper
3. A pump - keep the short stubby pipe attached to the caliper to attach the pump to
4. Remove the pistons, one at a time and clean. A mild abrasive, emery/scotch cloth to get rid of the goo. Thorughly dry to remove all cleaning agents and water
5. Replace inner seals. Use a bit of clean fluid to lubricate
6. Push pistons in with a small amount of clean fluid to lubricate, 2/3rds home
7. Add the new outer dust seals.
8. Use the tips of your fingers or a very flat, smooth, thick, wide, curved blade to push it home and seat it properly
9. If you're doing it don't be tight or lazy, do both calipers
10. Job done, sit back and enjoy a beer

 

i use a foot pump btw

 

^this. Why waste hours of your life?

 

Cheers guys, not sure if I will rebuild or just buy new now! Some phoning around tomorrow I think...

 

Because it keeps me on the garage out of the way!!!

 

some things you can cut corners with,at £40 quid a pop it aint worth poncing about with.I put a kit in the os of my old xover and it overheated with the disc glowing red.You need to avoid this situation if poss.

 

Cheers guy for the help I think I'll put it back together buy new calipers, discs, pads & hoses and do it at tekenders, I'm only a 20 minute drive from eddies farm, it will hold over that distance.

 

Perhaps you didn't do it right. People have been rebuilding calipers since they were invented...

 

Can you remember the company where. You got them from?

 

either autolec or partco.i`ll find the invoice & let you know.pretty much all the motor factors were quoting around £50 each which is still half the price of jk etc.as zed says people used to rebuild calipers all the time but i couldn`t find anyone to supply a seal kit last year so i didn`t bother to look for a kit when the missus` started binding.i`d already freed em up & cleaned em last year & knew they were fairly grim.give your local motor factors a call for a quote.you may be pleasantly supprised

 

I am with zed all my calipers ever have been rebuilt with the cost of pennies ,but if you have the cash...

 

http://www.brakeparts.co.uk

These do seals for ATE and Girling which are different despite what the VW suppliers say.

They also sell the pistons which I recommend you buy if yours are pitted.

 

when I get sticky pistons, ..... jack up, remove wheel, remove 1 brake pad, insert long crow bar, with a small wooden wedge block behind, and a squirt of summit useful behind the rubber, then 'heave ho....clonk' and Bob's your aunties fancy man! Then 2 man job, one pumping brakes till piston is out and squashing the crow bar, but not so far as it pops out, and I push back with the lever. repeat 5-6 times. Then repeat for the other piston, not forgetting to replace first brake pad, otherwise it all goes a bit 'Pete Tong'

 

Don't get that what about the disc?

 

Basically I lever the piston back, with the shoulder of the crow bar against a thin block of wood against the disk. i dont take the caliper off at all, never have, on this or my landrover. Works for me.