My van has a 009 distributor on it at the moment, not sure if it's the original from factory or not as the van still has most of the factory specifications. What dizzy would it have had when leaving the factory , what's the best replacement. 78/79 2ltr type 4 engine
I'll be selling a few shortly so decide which one you fancy and drop me a pm and the answer to your question ?? Anything but a 009 will be a massive improvement , believe me - bin there , done that and got the t-shirt.... Sent from my SM-A326B using Tapatalk
The 034 is for a stock 1600 twin port but after trying various Bosch svda dizzy / ignition combos I've come to the conclusion there's very little difference in the real world - that said replacing the 009 with your refurb svda 034 alone will be a noticeable improvement .... Sent from my SM-A326B using Tapatalk
What dizzy would the van have had from factory. Forgot to say my van is an automatic if that makes any difference.
It wouldn’t have had a 009, VW didn’t fit them to any car or bus. A 009 is only any good for a constant speed/load engine. @mikejames has a list but I wouldn’t worry about what your engine had originally, VW tried several types and a 034 is as good, or bad, as any of them. A 123 is better.
That says "JFU", J is the body style, the F is mechanical advance and the U is vacuum advance, I have seen an extra D on there, that adds a rev limiter, I believe.
The automatics have a slightly different set of curves, but when you plot them, the differences are minor, based on the idle speed being a bit higher or lower, and the vacuum signal having slightly more or less effect. Not the case for T1 single port engines where the curves are quite different, but the dual port style engines both T1 and T4 are pretty close. The key thing is that the maximum timing values are about the same, both being a bit conservative because VW dont want to be in the game of heating aircooled cylinder heads to the point the alloy softens in the 150-200C region. Its why a 123RVV switch set distributor on curve 0 or 9 makes most people happy. For perfection get a 123Tune then when you decide on the curve, you can reprogram it to exactly match. E.g. my progressive on my T1 likes to idle at 1500 rpm so I need to reduce the advance curve at 450mB vacuum advance/1500rpm to get it to drop back to 850 rpm, without having to blip the throttle to kill the vacuum. Not quite as easy as a 123Tune, I have to edit some entries in the lookup table and recompile the code in my ECU..
Hi Chris, put me down for one pls. Not sure exactly what I need but my 009 gets on my beak. Trouble is my solex carb doesn’t have a vacuum pick up point so not really sure what to do about that.
If it came off a bus there should be somewhere for a vacuum pickup on the carburettor. May be blocked off by a PO.. If not you can use a 123Tune programmed to turn off vacuum advance below 1500 rpm and then you can attach a vacuum pipe to the manifold, as it ignores the vacuum at idle.. or a MegaJolt ECU or similar can be programmed for the same operation.
Thanks Mike. The 123 seems the most reliable way to go. Expensive but worth it. Is it just a modual or does it come with a special dizzy of its own? My solex pict 30 something or other came with the engine Mexican Type 1. And had no vac input. I’d like to keep the carb and modify it like you say as it runs really well. I do have a spare carb with a vacuum pickup but it’s an EMPI which I think aren’t great?
The 123 is self contained as a distributor. It just drops in to the engine. I would try the EMPI carburettor if that is a 34PICT-3 clone as its also more "correct" for a dual port engine, being a bit larger. Not all of them are bad, just a percentage. If it is installed with all the stock air cleaner pipework providing heated air for idle it may well be OK.
OR ... If you decide to buy an SVDA dizzy I've a genuine Solex 34 pict 3 i was saving "just in case" , you could try that Sent from my SM-A326B using Tapatalk
