Need to attempt this tomorrow, never done one before but from what I've read seems it's an easyish job.?? Any top tips / pointers ? Do I need to remove the big central belly pan, or the little one at front?
Bowden tube?? Ordered a conduit if that's the same? This http://www.veewee.co.uk/index.php/p...tch-cables/715vg0350?vehicle=VW-Camper 68 -79
Was having a read of rob & Dave's (vw resource) procedure, says the cable pulls through from inside the cab, is that right? I thought the cable would iunhook from pedal underneath front of van?
just done mine, it is an under the van job, make it easier to remove the pedal and the the housing from the chassis, disconnect old cable from pedal lever attach new cable to pedal and if mind you, if you can attach a length of string to the old cable you can the attach the string to the new cable and pull through, saves time trying to push the cable, remove string slide conduit onto cable, secure conduit with correct bow in it then attach cable and adjust with wing nut to give you about 1" free play at pedal.
Coppaslip on the thread end once it's through. It'll be easier to adjust next year. Hold the crimped bit before the thread with mole grips to tighten the wing nut. It'll stop the cable turning, winding up and therefore help prevent fraying in the future. Cable goes through from under the cab front belly pan off only I took the pedal assembly off and apart and cleaned and regreased the pivot. Now it is very smooth. It's only two bolts. Do it while you are in there.
When you're fitting the new cable, jam something under the pedal to hold it up. I was going to let you struggle with that, but seeing as you're supposed to be camping...
nice and easy on a standard height or slightly lowered bus. i did mine in a car park. remove front belly pan 13mm spanner/socket to get into the front end where the cable atatches to the pedal. unclip form clevis pin. go to gearbox end and remove wing nut from cable remove bracket that holds the bowden tube. pull cable through from the front end ( as in you are at the front and pull it out, unless it is snapped in the middle then pull from both ends, it may be easier to cut the threaded gearbox end of the cable off) grease new cable and push through
PAH Was going OK till I split the new Bowden tube, forgot the "remove Bowden bracket" bit and tried to bend it into place , silly me. Couldn't finish it anyway as the rubber boot to fit over Bowden tube end won't be here till tomorrow. Also should there be a rubber boot to fit over the front end of steel tube? Or is it just another the same that goes over the rear end of Bowden tube?
yeah there should be a rubber boot at both ends, the ones i got in the cut were pony so i just left them off, not right but meh. the bowden tube should easily bend into place. it should have a nice S curve to it
Well this blighter split Will see if I can get a new one FOC. Will see what the boot is like when it comes then, if they're guff I'll leave it off .
