I attempted to get my heater working today, but it didn't start up. What should I be checking? I removed the Combustion Blower to check the contact breakers. One doesn't open that much and has a continuous spark. The other opens and closes with a gap, but I can't see any spark is this right? Glow plug glows ok, but don't know about spark plug side. I made a little video take a look. Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk
I found a video showing how to test the spark plug, so I did the test on mine and found out it's dead. The glow bit works but not the spark. So I've ordered one from Germany £58 But if it gets the heater working, it's worth it. Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk
The fast moving points with a spark is the points driving a coil that should be making the spark plug fire. The gold thing is a capacitor/ condenser .. it might be worth replacing it .. it has a 400 volt voltage rating and a value written on the bit facing the metal.. A simple bit of wire instead of a spark plug should produce sparks.. check that part of the operation because no spark could be the coil or the condenser..like any ignition circuit. The other geared one I believe drives the metering pump so should be pulsing 12 volts over to the pump power feed. If it isn't you might have to clean up the contacts and bend them slightly to make a pulsing connection so the pump clicks to provide fuel every so many revs of the fan..
There's this potentially as well iblaze for future reference and a spare possibly. There were several different types https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/glow-plug-eberspacher-t3-petrol-early/
I would dump the BA6 and either get a more recent Ebers or a Propex. What state is the heat exchanger in? How immune are you to carbon monoxide ?
Looks the same as the one I bought apart from I'm paying expensive postage from Germany Doh Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk
Nope I'm keeping it if I can get it going the heat Exchanger is in fantastic condition. Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk
I love my factory eber ba6 - but i don't trust it so i got a carbon monoxide detector (battery operated small one) which i have in the back of the bus mounted high up. The eber has never triggered it which is good. The alarm has only gone off once when i drove somewhere with the tailgate open by mistake - was drawing in exhaust fumes - proves it works tbh you'd never sleep with it running - its too noisy. its just used for getting the chill off the interior for any winter driving, or for a quick blast before bedtime if you're camping and its cold. doesn't take long to get everything toasty, then switch off/ go to bed .
They also go off with alcohol fumes and other hydrocarbons, so keep the spirit intake down.. But definitely fit a CO alarm.. A replacement petrol fuelled equivalent seems to be about £650 or more..
Mine is in my Double cab (work vehicle) daily driver, so I'd never be sleeping in it anyway, but yes, I'd fit a detector. I just want it the same as you defrost screen and make it nice n toastie on cold mornings. Also, the green timer does this have to be turned on for the heater to work, or can you just turn the knob temperature up and it works? (I've no idea as I've never had one before) Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk
to run mine, put the middle red heater controls slider to the bottom (there's a microswitch under there - means you can only run the eber when your heating is already set to "hot") then turn the green knob all the way to the right. Fans start immediately so you know its on, hear the clicks from the ignition then after a few seconds its lit and heat starts coming through. Once its warm, you can turn the green knob down if you don't need max heat. mine doesn't have a timer btw. i usually run mine with the left red slider all the way down too - so all the heat initially goes on to the windscreen - i found that heats up the driving area much faster than having air coming out everywhere. where does yours take its input from? mine sucks air in under the rear seat. if i've not used it much over the summer that area can have a lot of dust and/ or sand - the fans are strong enough to pull that through and throw it up through the windscreen vents
Mine pulls air from under the flat bed through that white tube. I thought they all had a timer to put the timer on on mine. I press the green knob in and turn it. Have you tried that? Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk
Ahhh ok I know what you mean. I thought you were talking about one of those fancy dash clock timers. yes you’re correct the regular green switch has a push / twist timer function too. I never use that, just turn it right for heat and left for off. Don’t push in.
My new spark plug/ glow plug turned up today, so that rules that out as it glows and sparks fine. Next is the fuel pump it doesn't tick. I have two, so I swapped it just in case, but no tick from either. @mikedjames, where can I buy a capacitor/ condenser to replace this one? I've done a continuity test on both the one that sparks buzzes, but the one with the cog doesn't, so I assume it needs replacing? Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk
It shouldnt have continuity if its a capacitor with points open in parallel across it. The spark plug points probably spend50% of the time closed, while the metering points close every few rotations of the fan. 0.1 microfarad 400 volt working polypropylene film capacitor. But I expect the contact on the metering pump points is burnt, ( or the cam is worn ) so it never makes contact when the geared cam tries to close the points. Clean the contacts then firmly but precisely bend them in keeping the contacts parallel so they make contact when the cam pushes them together and you should get continuity through the points when the cam pushes on them.
