First make sure the battery is fully charged Then temporarily you could bypass the switch by putting a wire from the battery pos to the coil pos then the switch will just do the starter motor That will tell you if it’s the switch or wiring
Why mess around shorting out various wires under the dash ?? This is 100% how to check a dodgy switch - keep it simple.... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
I think you’ve had some good advice on this. You did say someone is coming to have a look for you, did he get it going or have you got it sorted yourself? Always nice to have some feed back as it helps others in future!
When you changed the fuel filter , what was the old one like?. I ask because son in law had exactly same issues as you . Turned out his fuel pipe had collapsed and the pump was able to suck enough fuel to get the engine fired up but not enough to keep it running . The filter had little bits of powdery red residue in it which confused thing as the fuel pipe was black , however new fuel lines and filter and it ran almost immediately.
I’ve had some cracking advice, tried out most but lost interest in it as I haven’t got anywhere. Unfortunately the guy didn’t come over and have a look so back to square one on finding a mobile mechanic if it comes to it. Got some new spark plugs coming as a back up just incase too. going to try the coil to battery trick and hope it starts!!
Sometimes you can hit on the right combination but by the time you did, theres too much petrol lying about in the inlet manifold for it to actually create a burnable mixture. Leaving it for a while like 30 mins and trying a good long crank with the accellerator held wide open, no frantic stamping because thats making it worse , and with a well charged battery crank for 30 seconds.. Then stop, charge the battery up for a bit and try something else.. The waiting can be as important as the doing.
You said you change the fuel pump and rod. Do you have the correct lenght one for your new pump? Try puttig the hose that goes to the carb in a bottle and cranck the engine. Check if the pump give enough fuel. Do you put the leads back in the right order? Sounds stupid, but we all have did it, more than once. When changing the leads, did you check how do they plug on the spark plugs? Some plugs directly on the threaded parts, some needs the bit that bolt on it ( sorry if it is not clear, I have some difficulties to translate that.) You don't change the timing or move the distributor?
Just finished on the van for the evening, replaced all the plugs just in case and made sure the leads are in the right order.. 100% are. chucked fuel in the carb and started to spit again but won’t run..
Try the ignition switch bypass for power to the coil as suggested, and check for a spark with e.g. No4 lead pulled off the plug and pointed at the engine while cranking, if spark then check the timing - should be 8 degrees, same as idle, when cranking. Maybe you are getting no fuel and if it sputters and tries to run when you put fuel down the carburettor, then it could also be a lack of fuel pressure..check the fuel pump pivot pin is present, aftermarket ones do fall apart... It can die from no fuel and too much fuel..I had an issue where a shutoff solenoid caused the engine to run out of fuel, then it flooded the engine when fuel was provided, and still would not start, when I was trying to start it, so then cranking holding the throttle slightly open caused it to start on 2 cylinders, idling at 500 rpm, and I was eventually able to get it to rev up then "clear its throat". 30 seconds later I drove off..
If it’s going to start Mike it would have started on the carb down the throat thing first or second go, there’s something wrong with his ignition on the electrical side, but he hasn’t said he’s tested that yet!
Currently working on it now and just tried that still no luck! I have an electric ignition, could it possibly be then dissy? Even tho it starts on easy start ?
