Wish I understood just some of that Mike but you've lost me .... Only pointing out the Lumenition was a game changer and the difference on tick over was immediate and noticabley smoother . They say it needs a 3ohm coil or it'll damage the unit , why ?? I don't need to know but made sure the coil was up to it and off we burbled... The OP says he's having coil issues or more likely it's the quality of modern replacements ... ? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Its all about heating , specifically stopping the engine with the "points" closed. That 1 ohm coil I gave as an example will be producing about 225 watts of heat off 15 volts with the engine stopped with points closed or electronic switching device turned on. The classic 3 ohm coil will be dissipating about 75 watts in that case, more manageable as its only 33% of the power. Yes, coils do not seem to last, but if several fail then there is something else going on.. for instance a loose ignition lead causing arcs to run across the surface of insulators until they burn and start to flash over as the carbon track created shortens the insulating gap.. Leaving the ignition on with the engine stopped could be heating up the coil and damaging it ..e.g. listening to the stereo.. fitting a modern electronic module that shuts off when the engine stops can cure that.. But changing the coil might also be disturbing some corroded connection so that it works for a while. Probably find in that case that putting back a " failed " coil might also "fix" it for a while..
Wow guys! My brain hurts now. I think I’ll start with a compression test. I now regret my haste in dropping the engine!
