Fitting an Oil Cooler My T2 has a 1641 engine with a progressive carburettor which I have spent some time tuning and as a result while it is capable of running constantly at over 65mph on the motorway, it tends to run quite hot. I have seen 118-123 degrees C oil temperatures, consistently about 17 miles from Portsmouth on the M27 towards Southampton. Long hills are the cause. Once the bus slows down, the engine temperature drops to 95-100 degrees C at tick over so I knew the stock oil cooler could control the idle temperature without any problem. The issue is cooling at speed. The bus has a working thermostat, flaps and a stock oil cooler. It is dragging a roof rack, and a pop-top and sun visor. It has been lowered about 100mm so there is less space underneath. This How To is inspired by the fact that despite a lot of web searching and youTube searching, I could not find a lot of information on how to fit an external oil cooler to a T2. The basic oil cooler setup seems to be to full flow the engine and then fit an external full flow filter. In the simplest setup, the cooler loop would feed one of the Bugpack “72 plate” coolers and then the oil would be returned to the engine via an external fitting putting oil back into the rear oil presssure spring bore. It was recommended to fit an additional oil thermostat so that the cooler plate would be bypassed until the oil got hot, and then another thermostatic switch would turn on the fan. Odd pictures of oil coolers with air scoops for splitties popped up which gave me some ideas. Other people seem to fit the BugPack oil cooler with fan in some inappropriate position almost flat against some surface. Some installations are arranged to mistakenly feed hot air from the cooler to the rest of the engine. I considered the various oil coolers on the market - for instance the Mocal selection gives a wide range of coolers of different sizes, but the choice of cooler, hose fittings and hoses confused me. I decided to go for a different solution. I reckoned that starting with an EMPI full flow kit intended for use instead of a stock oil cooler would provide some of the parts I needed, and guide me to the next step. I chose the smallest '24 plate' cooler (which is a 12 plate using Mocal terminology as they count both sides as a plate in EMPI land..) I decided to full flow the engine by the use of the CB performance Maxi 3 pump, as I had a suspicion my stock oil pump was a bit worn out, like the rest of the engine.. This provides a no-machining (to the engine …) solution to full flow oil feed as there are two pipes on the pump cover, an “out” feeding from the pump and an “in” returning oil to the oil bore going off to the relief valve. The top of the pump is much taller than the stock pump and the pipes stick out. You do not need to pull the engine to fit this solution. I then decided that the best way to provide an oil thermostat was to use a Mocal sandwich plate which stacks between the filter and the oil filter head fitting. I went for a staged approach so if there is a problem with the cooler and its pipework you can drop the sandwich plate and refit the filter direct to the filter head.. And still have a working full flow system. And then if there are problems with the filter head, you can loop an oil pipe from in to out of the pump. Shopping List : Basic Full Flow system One 24 plate EMPI full flow kit. Includes 5 feet of hose, oil cooler, hose clips, oil filter head with ports to the left, hose fittings (3/8 inch NPT based, apart from the oil cooler which has ½ inch NPT) . It also has a set of springs and oil relief valve parts (not used) and an adaptor plate to take oil flow from the stock cooler position (also not used) This requires but does not include something like a FRAM HP-1 filter to allow for high starting oil pressure. Oil filter : FRAM HP-1 . Made in Europe, imported to USA, exported to Europe. This has a ¾ inch UNF thread on it which dictates the sandwich plate centre tube required. Oil pump : One CB performance Maxi 3 pump (comes with gaskets) but no oil fittings. I decided to take a stab in the dark and guess that although my engine had been upgraded to 1641cc the invoice price (£800 in 2005) seemed to reflect no upgrade to the cam, and the valve springs looked like stock springs. So the cam shaft would probably be a late model cam. This proved to be correct. One 8mm x 40mm hex headed bolt – all the bolts provided are the same length. One of them is too short as it only goes 4 threads into the block (see later) Oil fittings:Two 1/4 inch NPT to ½ inch ID hose fittings for the oil pump. Shopping list : Additional cooler loop Sandwich plate: Mocal OTP-SP1 with ¾ UNF centre filter thread, mine came with a pair of ½ inch male to male BSP fittings and washers. The cooler is designed to open at 80 degrees C. Additional oil hose : 3 metres of ½ inch inside diameter oil hose – because of the way I bought mine I made the mistake of buying a couple of pieces 2 metres long If you are buying stainless braided hose, buy 5 metres. Also buy 10 extra stainless steel hose clips (above and beyond those provided in the kit) Additional pipe fixings : another pair of ½ inch to ½ inch BSP male to male adaptors, (should be ½ inch NPT to ½ inch BSP) and two Dowty washers. Also a pair of ½ inch hose to 1/2inch BSP straight connectors and a pair of 90 degree 1/2inch hose to ½ inch BSP connectors. Cable ties Spare oil pump sealing gasket for stock pump in case you need to put it back. Stainless sheet or similar to fabricate air scoop. Tools Two leg crankshaft puller Oil pump puller with T shaped end Angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs. Welder or friend with welder for air scoop and rear engine support bar. Hammer, big adjustable spanners , drill Half inch imperial ring spanner for spigots going into the cover on the oil pump – you need it because the flats of the hex part of the spigot are a bit soft. 5/8 inch imperial ring spanner for the spigots on the filter (I used an adjustable spanner here) Tinsnips.