Handbrake set up

Not quite as you described. I did find that I had to make sure that the shoes were parallel to the drums to make them set up properly. The first time I set them up the shoes were catching at the top only because I hadn't released the star adjusters fully. Once I had done this and had aligning them more carefully, they engaged more evenly and allowed me to set the handbrake better. I think I then backed off 3 clicks on the star, not only one as you mention. This might be why yours are binding again?

I also found incrementally adjusting the handbrake on both sides together worked for me.

The issue you had with the spacer bar and spring did ring a bell, but as you mentioned you had fixed these, I didn't comment. However, these did have a massive impact on my ability to adjust the handbrake. It's easier to refer to my thread on this rather than try to remember the details here on final fix

https://thelatebay.com/index.php?th...h-twin-weber-carbs.100458/page-4#post-2049338

....and main thread here

https://thelatebay.com/index.php?th...-adjustment-and-issues-with-new-parts.100131/

 

How old are the drums Mark ? ...have you fitted new shoes ?

 

Give it a right good run and warm them up big time then see what happens as i think Matty said ...the old saying "Could be the newness "

 

I hope it's not similar to my issue. As you say, they start to bind only after the handbrake cable is added to the equation. With my issue new shoes had the wrong spring holes so the spring was too tight and the lever too loose as the indent was too deep. This caused the shoes to slowly shift position upwards till the top of the shoe would engage. Stamping on the brake did release the shoe. Can you spin the drum until it starts to bind and carefully take off the drum and see if the shoe has shifted upwards from where you left it?

 

I’d read somewhere that the shoes sold for bays now are actually for a t25 and the holes are not in the correct place.
I don’t know how true that is though.

 

If there is air in the system it would affect both sides.

The idea of just driving it and then readjusting things makes sense, it could be the shoes arent quite matched to the drum, and when the pressure drops in the cylinder, the springs pull the shoes together at the top, so the bottom ends of the shoes rock apart slightly where they are resting on the bottom adjuster. - and then rub over a small area.

Some driving will wear down that small area of contact until it is not touching. Or you wind up the handbrake adjuster which also holds the top of the shoes apart and the problem may go away.

 

That sounds very strange to me... but I think backing off just one click from dragging on the adjuster, from experience, isn't usually enough. Any drag will heat the shoes and cause binding.
Can't imagine fitting the cables doing anything, the lever should be dangling and ineffective until you tighten up the cable adjusters.

 

You can have it all adjusted perfectly then a use of the handbrake or a press of the foot brake and it starts dragging.

I start winding the adjusters and after a turn or so of the adjuster I have a stamp on the foot brake then adjust a bit more after if needed.
It seems to allow everything to settle into it place during the adjustment.

 

I agree, I was doing this by myself and getting under the bus, adjusting the handbrake, testing wheels for binding, stopping on footbrake, checking the wheels, repeat over and over again was tiring!