BuT it's still an outdoors environment not a nice warm factory it will have salt and damp air thrown at it and your van well could be worse say horse shiiiit and 6 foot of mud
Thanks for the offer Keith, that's very kind. I really only intend doing it piecemeal as I complete work on the inside. When, and if, I get the bottom done I'll just pay someone else to get grubby and covered in grease on my behalf.
I've been working on cars since I was 11 years old. I still roam the isles of auto supply stores studying everything like a kid in a candy store, and I have never heard of Waxoyl. The way you Brits rave about it like it came down to you in a golden chalice from Mount Olympus, I often wonder what sort of alchemy it is that we're missing out on over here. Then I wonder, if it's so great, why hasn't it made it across the pond? Can't we just paint, powdercoat, POR-15, and undercoat everything and call it a day? What is not covered by these products that your Waxoyl must be used on? I'm not trying to besmirch your loverly product. Just wondering what part of my bus I'm neglecting now. (adds paraffin to shopping list,...)
Its just leaves a waxy film inside box sections that supposidly stops damp from making contact with the metal and may nutralise any surface rust thats already there. With the amount of salt applied to our roads in the UK over the winter every little helps to slow down the metal munching monsters. Theres probably some similar stuff in the US thats not available over here.
I Googled Waxoyl and saw photos of undercarriages treated with it. Very Sexy. Now I get it. I can see from the photos how beautifully sealed everything is. It looks glorious. I'm gonna put this sh*t on everything. Could you seal wooden picnic tables & stuff, or would it come off on your clothes? I bought a motorcycle from a guy who's an airplane mechanic. He had put some sort of clear gooey sealant on the suspension tubes to protect them from rusting while in winter storage. He said it was some sort of miracle product they used to protect critical plane parts from corrosion. I now wonder if it was Waxoyl. Somebody in here just mentioned concern about the trouble of removing it when necessary. This guy said they had some special solvent they use to wipe it off. I should look him up and ask him about it. Could I spray the inside of my rims with it to stop rust from creeping thru from the backside? Ooh! I could put it on my chainsaw blade before putting it away each time. Yeah. I need it.
@BayWatcher You could become the sole US distributor for waxoyl and be a billionaire in a couple of years. When that happens don't forget my consultation fee of 5%.
Oh...erm...so getting the kids and their mates to chew licqorice and spit at the chassis is useless then...
I use the aerosol cans when doing a small area, like a newly welded & painted jacking point . It is obviously more expensive to buy in small quantities but getting the compressor out and then messing about filling everything and then warming it through is so time consuming - the rattle can job is over and done with in 1/2 hour.
I've just done my van with Bilt Hamber stuff. My schutlz gun tends to lay it on a bit thick I find, but that may just be that individual one. Aerosols give a lighter, smoother finish, but tend to clog with the underbody wax. I've used aerosols with the probe for cavity wax, which is thinner and they seem to atomise nicley, in that you get a mist coming out of the next hole along. For the bottom I use the thinner cavity wax along all the seams first, to penetrate between the spot welds, then use the firmer underbody wax from the schultz gun. It is a really horrible job, it gets everywhere, drips out of holes onto you and it stinks. Lying underneath a vehicle wearing goggles and mask in a fog of atomised oily stuff is not the way I'd choose to spend my time. But that's exactly why I don't pay someone else to do it - I wouldn't trust them not to just get it over and done with as quickly as possible! You need to be thorough if its going to work.
have got a tub of clear waxoyl to do my cavities (ooo missis) when i've finished welding etc and painted (think that's the right order) got a compressor and shuts gun. my only concern with the homemade stuff is that if it runs when it's warm that it might just eventually just run itself off vertical surfaces, gonna put plastic plugs on the back of box sections to re-oyl in years to come, gues theres not a perfect answer
Dinitrol and Dynax do aerosol versions. http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/Default.aspx?tabid=94 http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-s50 haven't used them myself but an option
Flippin' computers and their sneaky little buttons, this is what I thought I'd posted twice... I'll get some of the bilyhammer stuff and give it a go.
I've used the bilthammer stuff in an aerosol seemed OK to me, but obviously difficult to know exactly what has been going on inside the cavities. I found the probes long enough and didn't clog, at least they seemed to spray OK for the duration of each of the three can that I used. Still got loads of the stuff drip out of the various drain holes.
Im ashamed to admit I gave up on waxoyl after the cheepo cannister refused to soften enough with added turps and sitting in boiling water. Bloody end came of the lance when I messed on with it and the result was horrific! I had to scoop it up off the drive with a dustpan. Awful stuff.
Practical Classics did a good back to back test of various types of cavity waxes a couple ofincluding some salt spray tests and some panels left outside for ,months and the Bilt Hamber stuff came out in the top 3. I do like the idea of the diy version though. My try some of that!