Now that I have illustrated common forms of sub-surface defects and described the various types of polishing products available on the market, we should be able to determine what can and can't be achieved using different polishing methods. Let's start with hand polishing, as this is the only option open to car care enthusiasts who for whatever reason do not own a machine polisher. As mentioned earlier on, polishing by hand is not a waste of time, although it is fair to say that it is hard work and the results that can be achieved are limited in comparison to those that can be achieved when using a machine. If you have any defects worse than minor swirl marks you will not remove them working by hand; the best you can hope to do is lessen their severity and then consider masking them prior to applying sealant or wax protection. Based on this, and the [glow=red,2,300]FACT[/glow] that polishing compounds should not be applied by hand, we can see that our attention should be focussed on correcting or masking minor defects and products falling into the polish, glaze and chemical paint cleaner categories. In order to permanently remove minor swirl marks by hand, I recommend that you first try using a light abrasive polish (the exact choice should be made with due consideration given to the hardness of the paint being polished; this topic is covered in the guide "What polish should I use?"). If after several applications some of the marks still persist, you can then move on to trying a medium abrasive polish. If you do this, you must work the area well, in order to help the abrasives to breakdown. After several applications, I recommend finishing off with another application of a light abrasive polish, in order to remove any marring and restore a perfect finish in readiness for sealant or wax protection. If you would rather try and hide defects instead of removing them, I recommend that you use a glaze containing fillers. Such products will also enhance the glossiness of your paint in readiness for protection. If your paint is free of swirl marks but dull and lifeless, I recommend that you use a chemical paint cleaner to deep clean the paint and lay down an initial layer of sealant or wax protection. When it actually comes to polishing by hand, the first thing you should do is ensure that the paint is perfectly clean and dry; wash your car first and then decontaminate it if any surface contamination is evident. Then apply polishes by hand using either a good quality foam applicator pad or a microfibre applicator pad. The former tends to be better for applying abrasive polishes, as foam typically affords more bite, whereas the latter is better employed when gently working in glazes or chemical paint cleaners. Whichever you use, always remember to use a fresh pad for each product; you should never mix products on the same pad. A common myth about polishing by hand is that you should only work back and forth and side to side, rather than in circles; it actually makes no difference as long as you allow sufficient time for the abrasives to breakdown. A good indication of this is a change in the appearance of the polish; many appear to become more transparent when they have been properly worked. It's best to try and work in all directions wherever possible, because this will help to ensure that the edges of defects are rounded off evenly. In all cases, the final film of polish residue should be buffed off carefully using a plush microfibre towel. Minor swirl marks in the bonnet Such defects should be tackled using a good quality medium abrasive polish Only a few drops of polish are required to effectively work a 2 ft x 2 ft area The polish should be worked in firmly and evenly in all directions After a minute or two the residue will start to turn clear as the abrasives breakdown The result; the minor swirls are gone, but some deeper random scratches remain On to Waxing: http://thelatebay.com/index.php?topic=11709.0
