Hydraulic lifter valves adjusted now won’t idle

rebuilt 2 litre ge engine with fuel injection and hydraulic lifters
So I have made a few rookie errors,
1. I adjusted to hydraulic lifters so the were at .15mm, with the timing somewhere near the correct 7.5 degrees it started, it was a bit clackety, so I read up some more to find they should be screwed in 1.5 to 2 full turns in From where the adjusting screws make contact with the valves.
It starts and sounds much stronger but idles for a short while then cuts out.
I have adjusted the idle screw on the air inlet but this hasn’t made much of a difference, where do I go next

 

What a tool, not enough fuel in it, it runs but is very clackety, so I will back the the screw to 1 turn to see what difference that makes

 

It might be something you just have to live with and I doubt if changing the preload will make much difference but it's easy to do and worth trying. They are sensitive to oil grade so try a 15w40 if you're using something else.

 

Firstly try running it for longer and the tappets should pump up.

 

It wouldn’t run past the first 15 seconds without pumping the throttle

 

I’m sure sae 30 should be used
I’m going to give it a go… because in the past I have been a good listener and done as I’m told and you must use a multi grade or your engine will eat itself … and it goes KNACK.KNACK .KNACK ,KNACK,KNACK … for half an hour
well to me that sounds really bad .. an sounds like metallic pain to me, but they know better on here apparently
But I’m still not convinced

 

VW were probably recommending a multi grade by the time those hydraulic follower engines were made?

 

It s has got breaking in oil in it sae 20 golden film

 

I’ve spent loads of time chasing hydraulic lifters. Best thing to do is drive for at least 30 mins to ensure lifters are full of oil. If you do this on an evening they will be cool for adjusting the next morning.

follow usual procedure to ensure you’re working on the correct valves with crankshaft position etc. slacken each until just clack and then screw in 1.5 turns. But main thing is to ensure you’re working on pumped up lifters or likely a waste of time

 

great article attached , but I found 100% that I needed my valves to be fully pumped up. Article suggests that they don’t have to be pumped up. Pumping them up ensures clear start point though

https://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=11408

 

YA und zat is vy they get fed up v iz. Tha thing …. And put in a Subaru at least that then they not going knack ka knack knack viz za 5 thirty ya?