You'll have seen my woes with the loosened valve guides. I'm pretty much resigned to paying out a big wedge of money to fix it, so I'm working through the options. I know how to get the engine out - done it twice by myself but it scares me, especially in winter, working outside. My aim is to get it out then either fix it myself or get an exchange engine, depending on what I find. I've put out feelers on some local club sites to see if anybody will come round and help me. The thing is I've never joined any local clubs so I don't know anybody to ask directly. I live in Fulford, York. Can anybody on here help me?
Why bother with the hassle, it’s only 4 bolts! Plus 6 more, some tinware, oil filler tube, coil, some wiring and pipe work
Upt Norf. There you will be in your shorts and tee shirt whilst someone takes a trip from dan sarf and will be kitted out in layers suitable for scaling Everest.
You can get heads off without dragging it from under the bus or disconnecting it from the gearbox, I did it a few years ago, but you do need to drop it down. I hinged mine down a bit c/w gearbox on the front gear box mount, it's a pretty stable, unscary way of doing it. Also as you're outside, leaving it there keeps the rain off the engine while it's apart.
Obviously, remove the exhaust and Hx(s) first but also I'd advise pulling the pushrod tubes and removing the tin directly under the barrels and other tinware screws only accessible from underneath before dropping it down. I may have had the rear slightly raised on axle stands for a bit more access but maybe not, I can't remember.
no, though Zed's post is interesting. The issue is it's getting physically harder and harder lying underneath and I risk killing myself working alone. Last time I had a jack slip due to carelessness. Fortunately the wheel was still on.
Not sure about the side where the oil cooler is but I’ve had number 1&2 cylinder head off with the engine in situ. Bit of fiddle because of the tins but can be done.
Well there you go - I had the cooler side one off. No need to remove the cooler but probably had to loosen the fan housing to get the tin out. I only took my wheel off to get more access, but yeah, you really must have good stable stands under the van, balancing on a jack not recommended and anyway, you'll need to to lower the engine.
(more to think about) So have you ever swapped the pistons and cylinders like this? I've had a set of Mahle's waiting 5 years.
I didn't need to, but yes I could have. IIRC you'd also need to remove the cooler to get the gudeon pin out of no.4. I have to say though that the more you intend to do, the more sense it makes to take the engine right out... but in my case, having nowhere even to work on it as the back of the van was stuffed with carbs, exhaust, tinware and other crud I'd have done it there, it's a matter of weighing your options against the effort and if there's only one path open...
It did take me days, I'm not as young etc and wasn't in a rush, so did a bit, had a break, did some more, though F this and gave up for the day etc etc. I find working lying on the floor exceedingly hard these days after a few ops messed me up - the will is there but...
Totally agree with Zed. Recently had an issue with my type 4 engine. Was considering trying to get a cylinder head off with the engine in situ, but ended up taking out the engine, as advised by Zed. It's not that difficult if you've got a lift, just time consuming removing everything, like tinware, etc. Just take your time, label everything and take off as many bits as you can to give you less weight and more room.. including the oil filler tube.
Your doing the right thing asking for help, despite some comments , if your not in the right place to do it yourself then wait for a better time or when someone can come and assist . I speak from experiance that last year i almost killed myself working under a BMW i thought was secure on ramps and axle stands , but on opening the first belly pan nut whilst laid underneath , the car rolled back trapping me underneath , i have never felt to close to death under there, luckily i had my daughter and wife in the house a who heard my shout for help , they were able to stop the car rolling back further, and somehow lifted the car up so i could get from under ,a few minutes longer and the exhaust u clamp thread would have pierced my chest . Please wait till your feel right to work on it.
I pretty much avoid going under now TBH, but did survive 8 years of doing it full time with some very stable axle stands that I could not have knocked the vans off if I tried (I did try). I worked on my own for most of that time where nobody would have noticed I was trapped underneath - it makes you extra careful I believe. I agree though - any doubts, don't do it.
I must confess I did have the van on a wheel free ramp at work when I took the head off in situ. I also removed cylinders 1 & 2 barrels & pistons. Bit of a mare though on the reassembly when one of the circlips flew off the pliers. Couldn’t find it anywhere until I spotted it in the bottom of the fan housing. Recovered it with a retractable magnet and breathed again
I have an almost level brick paved driveway. That's where I've done it before. It has to be outside to take the engine out as there's no jacking headroom in the garage.
Oi I’m a southerner in just shorts and T shirt right now (we’ll just forget I’m not in the UK at the moment)
