Yes, OK I know it may have been asked dozens of times before and that all you experts probably think it's a silly question but ........................... Should the left hand tinware (and the right hand for that matter) come away without having to remove the tinware below the firewall? I've removed the foam strip from the left hand side, taken out all the screws around the left hand panels and removed the rear most panel but, at first try, the main left hand panel doesn't want to move very much. I've had to leave the job for now as the boss has called me in for dinner, but thought I'd take the opportunity to ask those who know! Should I remove the dizzie and are there perhaps any 'hidden' screws that I've missed? Should the main panel just lift at the rear and slide rearwards or is there perhaps a flange at the front of that main panel which tucks behind the one below the firewall? Do I need to use more wellie??
Are you trying to take the whole lot off? Not really possible without having the engine out, certainly not the frontmost panel.
No, don't want to take the whole lot off - just the left hand side bits (2 of them). The rear most small panel came off no probs but as I say, the larger panel seems to be stuck. Have I missed something? I have removed the inlet manifold so it's not that that's stopping it.
its two main bits of tin with the sparkplug holes ..(type 4 ) to cut hole for the aux blower pipe to heat xchanger ........I would guess its just a case of finding all the screws , i think there are a couple underneath at the back but will check on mine
Are you talking about the cylinder tin? Did you get the screw that sits next to the dizzy. Has the gearbox end of it got a flat bit that is sandwiched between the over gearbox tin and the rear lower tin and the heat riser elbow. I'm not 100 % about this, but may get a chance to look tomorrow.
If its a type 4 then you can take it off with the engine in but is a right old mess lol The screws underneath by the firewall are the worst to get on but it is possible. I removed all of my tinware for powder coating without taking the engine out
You live and lear eh! I thought all the screws would be visible from the top but hell, that would make it too easy wouldn't it!! Under the bus we go tomorrow to find the elusive screws underneath!
You'll enjoy it. Not. As it's a T4 engine, the screws that hold it all together towards at the gearbox end are in from the top and there's virtually no room for a screwdriver. If you're very lucky, someone kind like me will have replaced the tinware screws with hex head bolts so you can spanner then with the engine in. It's not that hard to lower the engine down a bit and gain more room. Remove the three rear tins and the plastic part of the oil filler. If the petrol pipe's short from the tank to the mechanical pump (if you have original pump) you will have the clamp and disconnect it. Support with jack Undo the 4 M8 bolts holding the engine bar to the mounting brackets on the chassis. From underneath remove the two bolts at the top of the bell housing into the carrier. Lower the engine + gearbox a few inches pivoting on the from gearbox mount. You can leave all the electrics, heater cables, accelerator cable, clutch etc connected. This would also enable you to get the firewall out if you wanted. Of course all this engine tarting up would go much better if you removed the engine altogether - much easier to reassemble without scratching anything.
Wasn't my original intention to tart it up but now you mention it ............................! Yes - I got under this morning and can see those two screws but can't shift 'em yet. Anyone got any brilliant ideas of for loosening them off without dropping the engine? Thought I might drill 'em out and then, when I put it back together use different fastenings (haven't decided what yet). That'll make it a lot easier next time the tins have to come out. What do you think?
