Thanks for posting the picture. Undeniably adjustable, but not a fixed tie rod. It's the wrong tie-rod? Not that it matters if you can make it the right length.
Looking at this piccie of the track rods fitted to Gusbus, the fixed tie rod is crimped both ends whilst the adjustable ones have clamps fitted either end. These are VW Heritage ones HTH
Got a nice parcel from Machine 7 today. 2x adjustable tie rods, 1x steering damper, 1x drag link, 1x OEM VW steering coupling. Bentley says don't whack the old balljoints out with a hammer because you'll wreck the threads and won't be able to put them back again - as I'm ripping it all out and replacing, presumably that's not an issue here? (I do have a balljoint splitter somewhere anyway, I think) Also, am I going to have to take the steering box off to replace the steering coupling, or can I change it with column and box in situ?
We did the one on Gusbus without taking the steering box off - from memory, the cover at the pedal level lifts up giving you access to the bolts holding the flexi coupling in place. I cant remember if you have to lift the steering column though, I think you do (it was a good few months back when we did it)!
...on the same sort of note (and sorry to hijack)...I need to change all the trailing arm ball joints on Jaffa as the boots are all split, TranporterHaus sell cleaned powder coated ones with the new joints fitted for £170 does that sound okay??
Coolair sells them too - bigrich will be able to give you a price (which reminds me, I need to ask him the very same question )
Don't go whacking ball joints out - buy a decent scissor type splitter. You might need to use it on the new ones. You can change the coupling without taking the box off. Get the steering box straight before putting the new stuff on.
Coupling - VW only, no repro - if you bought a repro bin it. No need to remove box but you may have to loosen and lift the column to get the bolts out the way. Do the job from under the bus. Splitter fot the track rod ends - there'll be at least one that needs it. Price up the ball joints. I'm just about to do mine and the local garage will do all the pressing for £30. You'll have to dismantle it all anyway, so the swap peeps are charging £100-£120 for pressing 4 joints and posting them. They don't need powder coating...
Little note on the steering coupling, take note of the earth wire for the horn when you remove it, and put it back in the same place if you dont (and laying uder a bus its easy to cock it up although that may just be me ) you will have no horn as it needs to earth through the steering box. also there is an earth wire on a tag in the bottom steering column to floor cover, easy to knock it off a pig to get back on. Good luck BB, Its not a hard job, i've had to do it 3 times on mine, once to replace, once to change from repro to genuine and once to fix the horn : i centered my steering by turning and counting the turns and then by lining up the arrows on the top of the steering box
.. be wary of Meyle drag links - I just fitted a new one and had to remove it because it contributed to wandering steering. Bus now has a drag link sourced form C&C and it's a much better fit - the ball joints sit low in the drop arm and steering link which was not the case with the Meyle variety.
