Last Year I got Laurie Pettit to build me a Type 1 stroker engine. A bit of a treat for myself. It was great singing it's way home 300 miles from Laurie's and for a fair while after, but I began to notice a noise. It was a tapping noise, heavier than tappets, lighter than big ends. Metallic. It was difficult to tell what it was. Eventually after everyone I know had a listen we decided everything it couldn't be, and all that was left was little ends. Odd after 2,000 miles. To speed things up and save shipping it up to Laurie I had a look myself. It looks ripped apart because it was, I was in a hurry. Maybe a couple of the little ends were a bit on the slack side so I replaced them all and the big ends shells even though they didn't need it. I didn't have a great deal of faith that I'd have fixed it and when I started it up the noise was still there, Being a bit cheesed off by now I took it straight back out and palleted it to Laurie complete. I was chatting with Laurie about it all the time and this was his idea. He completely stripped it, examined and measured everything, rehoned the barrels, changed the cam for a milder one, bought it back and helped re-fit it. It got late and when I realised he was going to drive home that night I sent him off. When I got it finished and started, same noise still there. By now I was wondering if I was imagining it except I knew I wasn't, but secure in the knowledge it'd been in pieces twice I just drove it anyway. Laurie said thrash the ucker and if it breaks I'll mend it. So I did. Lots. About a week ago Laurie sent me a set of rockers shafts built up with ratio rockers (milder cam phase 2). They made a big difference and now it revs higher still in the power band. So I did. Lots. But the noise suddenly got much louder. I happened when I started it up to drive home from work. and sounded like it was spitting nails. It was late, I'd been accidentally locked and alarmed into the site so I drove home anyway. I made it back in one piece so I drove back to work again. Sounded bad but it was still driving ok. My mate and I agreed it sounded like a big end was on it's way out, but it couldn't be or the 25 miles I'd driven by then would have finished it off. So today I had another good listen with a stick and a piece of pipe. The feckin baffles in the exhaust are rattling about! I took it off and shook it to double check. Heritage are sending a replacement and I bet that's been the worrying noise problem from day one. This engine's been a PITA since last summer!!!!!! But now I know it hasn't been at all, it was the £50 beetle back box. Now not only does it rattle, it doesn't baffle either - people stare, but I just turn up the music. Roll on Wednesday when the replacement arrives. I've turned the tailpipes downwards in a frown for now.
Some man hours have gone into this! Up to Scotland, completely stripped and rebuilt and me stripping the top and doing the con-rod bearings... But you're right it'll soon be forgotten. I know this is it, you would too if you'd had a shake of the exhaust. I think it must have been loose from new put I had silly loud tail pipes for a while which masked it a bit. The fecker's still spitting oil if I fit the serpentine pulley, but the noise was more important. I have a plan for the oil leak when I get a chance to drop in at the machine shop. Then at last I can think about Dells and a better linkage.
Where's the oil coming from on the serpentine? between pulley and seal or case and seal? or is it a flinger thread as per og pulleys?
Well done Sherlock, Sounds like a song or was it a story? (i forget) on Thats Life! years ago, about taking a car into garage over and over again to cure a rattle, several trips and and a few quid later it turned out to be a pebble in the hub cap.
My father in laws van had been to 2 local garages where they couldent diagnose the screeching /scraping sound he was experiancing It took me all of two mins with a penknife to remove the stone that was stuck between the disc brake guard and the disc brake lol
The slinger doesn't sling. It's slightly bigger than original (0.05mm under the hole size compared to 0.15 for a gen VW one) and hits my new case. That's the first one - wear on one side mostly and worst centred on the keyway. The replacement wore evenly all round. Cleared swarf and sand it down a little bit still leaks. The main difference I can see is the spiral continues right through the case where the original the spiral runs out where it would still be inside the case. Plan it either to transplant the steel thrower from a std pully, or turn it down and sleeve it for a conventional seal, but there's barely any metal to play with due to the key slot. I shouldn't have to be doing this but it's interesting i suppose. It's not case pressure, worn mains etc. A std pulley is fine on it, but if you see it at 5,000rpm you wouldn't have much faith in it turning the fan. The serpentine made the whole engine quieter. I want it back on there and by hook or by crook it will be eventually.
i thought i heared a rattle in my camper some twit had left a tilly lamp in the cupboard.... good work zed.
something like this.... http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Sho...For_Sand_Seal_Pulley_-OB-Non_Machine-CB-.html
Yes that's the last resort but as I'd still have to machine my serpentine pulley to fit it, I might as well engineer the whole thing myself? It would be cool If I could fit a seal right into the case, but there's percious little space, also even better if I can transplant the thrower so nothing to ever wear out.
This is the problem, maybe insurmountable. Green bit Is what I need to get from a std pulley - I can already hear the machinist sucking in his cheeks. Red bit is the BMD pulley White broken line if you can see it is the woodruff slot It's all approx to scale and the woodruff slot is limiting the thickness possibilities for the transplanted thrower. The other thing would be to cut then both in half with a press fit step in the cut and turn the BMD bit in effect into a big washer with the woodruff key partly in each but I'm still pondering whether that would work..
Look on the bright side you have probably done people a huge favour, now we will all check the exhaust first when we have a funny rattle
If your stuck you cut the green part of your pulley, send it to me and I'll wire cut the internal diameter.
That's the general idea. The customer rebuffer at VWH first said it had also happened to him, then that it was so rare it's only about the 3rd time he's heard of in 10 years so take your pick! To be fair he didn't rebuff and a replacement is on it's way.
Just to be clear, if I send you a standard steel pulley, you're offering to send me back just the green bit? Can you cut it accurately enough to be able to press fit it onto my ali BMD pulley once that's turned down?
