Engine rear crossmember - essential????

1979 Bay AS 1600 engine

Following on from http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/oil-seal-problem-help-urgently-needed.24626/

The "recon" (older AB ) engine is now bolted into place onto the bellhousing but there are no holes in the crankcase to fit the rear crossmember.... hmmmm.

Mechanic says beetles didn't have a rear crossmember and were solidly supported only on the bellhousing.

Is the crossmember a non-essential addition to T2 later models, and can it be safely left off ??

Thanks in anticipation.

 

Possibly just to cut down on the vibration? The mechanic doesn't think the crossmember mountings on the chassis are beefy enough to be "structural"

 

http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares...hop.product_pID_118797_lang_EN_country_GB.htm

 

oh.... and find yourself another mechanic, mr johnny big balls know everything you're listening to is clearly a bodger that got your the wrong engine and is now trying to justify his screw up.

 

It depends what you mean by essentail.

I didn't have one on mine for years because I misplaced it, and it ran just fine and dandy - no problems.

I know many performance exhausts dont allow for the mounting of the brace without a lot of customisation (which a lot seem to not bother with) and these seem to run ok.

Having said that, when I did finally find and replace my brace the engine was quiter and felt more responsive.

If you can get one on get it on.

 

Like anything fitted to VW or any cars. It is there for a reason? 40 years later we may not know what it is but they did. Refit one please.

I would guess for no other reason than to ensure the engine vibrations are reduced and well probably stop your tinware from falling off every time you go over speed bumps!
Dont forget Beetles are short and fat and not commerical vehicles, Vans are !

 

Neither beetles or splittys have them although if its possible its better on, if not possible don't lose any sleep I've never heard of a Bettle or splitty engine falling out

 

Fit your backbar. It's large, hefty and expensive, so VW fitted it for a reason. The box will support the engine, but I wouldn't want it flapping away for miles.

You can get the adaptor plates, which need the case tapping and a few other mods. You're going to have this issue if you're fitting a Beetle case to a bus. Your mechanic should've known he'd hit this problem.

I'd find another mechanic BTW, if he's that casual about stuff. Check he hasn't chucked your thermostat away.

 

I believe you can get adapter plates that bolt on to the oil pump housing using the four bolts on the oil pump cover. As per the Heritage link above. I also believe that they are crap and will cause potential oil leaks

 

They need a bit fettling, but look like they'll do the trick. They come with a ground steel plate that covers the oil pump, which looks like it'll be ok.

 

I have a spare adapter plate but just the main plate shown in the link not the longer studs
Had one on my old engine no problem with leaks

The beatle gearbox mounts are different than a bay and are designed to take the weight of the engine, i would not want to trust a van without the correct mount

 

I guess they started fitting an engine bar because upto '71, there's no gearbox cradle, but they must have thought it worth continuing. I'd fit one.

 

Think about it - if you leave off the engine brace bar, you'll probably screw up the gearbox nose mount, because the cantilever effect of all that weight hanging off the back of the gearbox will most likely cause it to wear out in double-quick time. Then you'll have to fork out the cost of a new nose mount for the gearbox too, and they're not cheap.

 

Just as an FYI beetles and splittys support the gearbox from below, not above!!

The "lugs" on the box aren't really designed to hold 80kg of engine, and a vibrating engine at that!!

 

I fitted one of the case adapters mentioned above. It was only on a 'temporary' engine I used to get me by. In the end I used it for two years and it didn't leak any oil from the oil pump mount.

I'd definitely fit one again unless the engine's got the extra metal bits that can be tapped to fit the engine bar properly.

 

Your clutch will judder without it.

 

Ta, have just ordered one

Engine started perfectly and sounds and drives great! Just a thought, but when should the oil be changed for the first time on this recon engine ??