W When I was removing and replacing the d coupling I was pushing the gearbox shaft in and out can't say I noticed and physical gear selection
I changed that still no difference though what should I try next? I tightened the clutch cable should I have slackened it? Would replacing it all together help?
Time to stop guessing. Engine off. Can you select the gears? Yes - possibly clutch related. No - linkage or box internals. Assuming that was a "no", get assistant to atempt changing the gears while you look what's happening underneath. If nothing obviously amiss, disconnect rear linkage and try to select gears manually at the box. By now you should have narrowed down where the problem is. Linkage is simple, you can see what's what. If it's box next stage is take it out, remove the nosecone and inspect inside for the usual culprets - the hockey stick ball and the selector thing it fits in. If none of this makes sense, do some reading up.
Ok it's defo the gearbox as the linkage seems fine once I get the box out where do I buy the bits as vw heritage don't seem to list them Also any threads giving advice how to remove box and fit the selector bits ?
If it's something in the nosecone you'll be able to fix it. If it's deeper inside it will be more cost effective to replace with a second hand box. There's only one way to find out...
Hi Kiddy12, I am no expert but have been inside these boxes a couple of times and am currently rebuilding one. Zed is spot on, nosecone bits easy, but going deeper needs a press and a special socket (http://www.amazon.com/Cooled-Pinion-Cone-Socket-Sir-Tool/dp/B00FFCCFGA) for the large ring nut around the pinion. The problem is that this nut is torqued to 160 ft pounds so needs to be properly gripped. If the problem is inside the main casing it is possibly a split synchro hub see item 19 here http://www.partsbase.org/vw/typ-2-syncro-t2-eu-1979-typ-2-30-gears-and-shafts-for-manual-gearbox/ I have replaced a 3/4 hub which split, the crack propagating from the sharp inside corner where the keys (20) fit. Symptoms were similar, very hard to get into gear with engine stopped, impossible running and difficult to disengage. A simple thing to help trouble shoot would be to drain the oil and carefully check the debris sticking to the magnetic drain to see if there are any bits that look like they belong to a synchro unit, there are some photos in my recent posts that may help. Now looking on the bright side it is possible that the issue is in the nose casing see: http://www.partsbase.org/vw/typ-2-syncro-t2-eu-1979-typ-2-29-4-speed-manual-transmission/ where the ball (scroll up to 63) on the "hockey stick" is damaged or the frame (60) is loose. Hope this helps.
Just an update of how I'm getting on I'm using this guide https://www.facebook.com/viralthreaddotcom/videos/763477337127444/ Which tells me to go to the bottom to remove just the gearbox Is this right ? I'll have to remove bolts joining the gearbox to the engine and the starter motor aswell will I not ?
i haven't looked at your link but you can't remove the gearbox without removing the engine, I'd forget that idea.
Engine and gearbox are now out and in the garage I'll remove the nosecone tomorrow I've got oil ordered so I'll change that when it arrives What other jobs should I do when they are out ?
See if you can get to the bottom of the gearchange problem first? Look about for rust. fuel tank breathers and filler pipe behind the fire wall.
Hi again took the nosecone off and when I did a bit fell out and there was no evidence of a selector bush at all Also the gear selector bit is very loose is it meant to be?
You should be able to select the gears now. Double check, though it seems the bush has disintegrated (or it fell out while you were taking off the nose cone).
