With the weather being Good all weekend im going to lower the front of my van . The question is how long do i need to do this job
I do not have a clue but will be good to see how you do it. Pics and info if possible would be nice. I want mine done at some point.
The forecast looking good all w/e is why I'm IN my camper in Falmouth, Cornwall. Presently by Pendennis Castle with 360 degree views while I keep up to date with "work". Will meander back home to Gloucestershire early next week
Depends how your gonna do it. I can change a set of front spindles in a 1hour and 30mins. I've fitted a red 9 easy rider kit on my old 71 in 2 hours. Or if you already have a beam adjuster installed, it will just be a case of jacking the whole front end up and fiddling with it until your happy. If this is your fist time doing this I would guess about 4hours all in. Much less for the beam adjuster tho!! Hope this helps.
i used t2d dropped spindles took me about 5 hours to fit but i did remove the torsion bars to see how it all worked i was never pleased with the set up nothing to do with type 2 detectives set up but it just didnt work for me with a family and camping gear plus im a big lad i was allways bottoming out and rubbing arches even with smaller tyres i dont think lowering the van is straight forward with any set up and will take many hours to get it right
Exactement! Red9 EZ rider set up took me a good day to fit, then hours and miles of experimentation. There are (or were)loads of little details they don't mention in the instructions.
Ok started this and Been doing well till i got To the arb bush and clip how the f##k do i get it of . Give up on it for now will go back to it tomorrow and dont worry i have Been takin pics for a how to
Slice down the centre with a grinder and replace with new. Europarts sell the mounting kits dirt cheap. Agree with above, actually fitting spindles doesn't take long, but then you're in for months of experimention... And don't forget you need to set the camber and tracking or it'll drive like a pig. And when you get smaller tyres, if you require your van to turn corners, get strong small tyres. I found these only available in 175 width. And you may still want to try and refit spaced bumpstops even with small tyres. Get it sorted and it'll drive beautifully on nice even flat roads. That's 2 splines at the back too. Little lecture, sorry. Not a rant as we all do as we wish and I've done this very thing, then reverted back to full height even though it looked great and drove fantastically (on smooth roads). You will have noticed your van has masses of suspension travel when you've finished you'll have about an inch. Look at the rear stops and see how at full height, the progessive bumpstops almost touch and come into play as a major part of the rear spring. 2 splines requires you cut off all but about half of the top blob so you loose this progressive supension damping and replace it with a hard whack. Without any stop at all, your driveshafts will hit the chassis. You'll hardly notive the back bouncing about though because you'll be sitting over the front wheels. It's the front you'll notice for that reason. Flipped spindles are sold on a carefull use of some truth. yes they retain original suspension geometry which is good. What's never mentioned is you'll only have an inch of it having given up the other 4-5" to fashion. I've also had a one spline down Westy - I like the look of lowered buses. That was great, standard wheels/tyres, didn't rub unless hit a speed bump at 50mph, handled well and I didn't regret it for a moment.
Oh yes "the other thing". Do you have a partner you like? Are they possibly focussed on their weight from time to time? When the wheels rub, suspension crashes about, whatever you do, don't say "it doesn't do that when I'm driving it on my own". I got my ex with this a few months ago in the golf - it was only the rear shocks needed replacing, and did it all the time, but she wasn't to know. Couldn't say anything could she, but it was a magical moment.
Well this is get to me now started again today and got futher than yesterday to the point i had the bottom arm of and the spindle but for the love of christ how the f##k do i get the top arm of all bits of and it will Not move and is still under load
Think he means arm out of beam - It's easier if you remove bump stop first which you could still do by jacking up the arm, but not essential. Lots of lump hammering on the lug bits and nail bar to prise it up a bit now and again to stop the bumpstop holding it.
you don't need to remove the arms if you're fitting dropped spindles... unless they're transporterhaus flipped spindles!!
Terminology breakdown for the pedants... Dropped spindles are welded and the ball joints the right way up so no need to change the arms. Flipped spindles have upside down ball joints and special arms to go with them.
