Since driving the bus about the place for the last couple of years I've had a slight drip of oil which is only ever present after a journey (flywheel seal?). But on our last trip to the lakes I checked oil level before leaving (Oxford) and after arriving (Penrith) and I'd lost a fair amount of engine oil to just below the bottom mark on the dipstick. So with the aid of top ups I managed to get home ok but en-route home I checked oil at services and forgot to put the dipstick back in properly and I ended up with oiled everywhere in the engine bay (I am only presuming this is the cause of it!) I have had a look at the engine today and found some leakage on push rod tubes- easy enough fix! I have changed seal on sump plug- easy fix I have noticed a crack in the dipstick rubber boot- bit of a faff but easy enough Questions are: 1-Shall I take the engine out to inspect flywheel seal and have a good look over the whole thing, or just ease it off gearbox to take a peep inside to see if there's oil in the bell housing? 2-Do you think it could be something else? Here's some pics of what I found Oil gathered in the whole between fan mounting bolts. Leaky push rod seals Leaky oil filler neck What do you think?
Should have said its a type 4 engine. Also, when ordering pushrod seals, jk are telling me I need 8 of the small ring type seals but what other seals will I need? I ask as there's 8 tubes which obviously need something at either end. Edit: sorted that issue, was having a moment!
You're also missing the undertins that make sure the thermostat operate correctly!! I also agree I'd be looking at doing both crank seals, flywheel and fan hub, the pushrod tubes seals, and the dipstick tube boot!!
2 seals per push rod tube required so 16 in total - i made the same mistake when i got mine, try to get the viton (green) seals the normal black rubber ones don't last 5 minutes. I'd jet wash the engine off and see where it comes from, mine leaks a bit from the push rods and rear seal behind the fan,the fan sprays it about and makes it look worse than it actually is.
When you do the pushrod tube seals put a nice smear of permatex 3h around the outside of the seals, this will keep them nice and dry and leak free. Don't forget to locate the retainer wire correctly too. Does your bus smoke, is it burning oil or just leaking? When you pull it you'd be best doing a compression check too.
I have an odd leak too - I think there are possibly 2 in fact, one from the oil cooler (which seems to just drip when running) which isn't the worst, the second only occurs when I stop the engine after a long run and oil pours out of the rear (near gear box) for a minute or so expelling about a tablespoon full. Over all I don't lose much when measured on the dipstick but it is non the less annoying as the drive is covered in oil and frequent top-ups are needed. Also I'm not sure my thermostat has the cable to that pulley as shown in the picture above - what does that do?
Opens up yer flaps mate(oooooooeeeeerrrr mrs!!!!) if its not connected they'll be in the open position.
Update Released the four bolts and the engine fell out Found this; Bell housing covered in oil. As @Paul Weeding said, will be changing crank seals. Paul is this a pain in the arse to do?
As well as crank, flywheel, push rod, oil cooler, sump plug and fan seals, is there anything else worth doing while its out?
I think I read on another thread that if the clutch is contaminated it ought to be changed, what's the reasoning behind this?
Also, I've noticed that where the case joins below the bottom of the flywheel it seems not to be aligned quite right, is this normal?
