Oil loss......and more!

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Foxy, Aug 17, 2013.

  1. May be ,do keep us informed re how painful your arse gets and perhaps we can compare notes?(and mode of tool use?)and just in case anyone thinks I am being glib ,I got dangleberries from sitting on a cold stone garage floor years ago >seriously painful/not at all funny !
     
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    T4 flywheel seal is easy with 5 low torque bolts holding the flywheel on, T1 is more difficult purely because the torque on the single bolt holding it on is far greater.
     
  3. I would advise buying the complete Victor Reinz kit. This gives you all the correct seals of high quality, including the paper gaskets for oil pump, spreader plate for flywheel etc. you may as well do everything whilst the engine is out. Buy some gunk degreaser and give the engine a really good clean. Don't be tempted to use any kind of gasket sealant other than permatex. Using this will (almost) guarantee you stay leak free.

    Get a fan hub puller or make your own ring to go around the seal to pull the hub. Be careful here as you run the risk of damaging the case. Pull out the old seals, again, take care of what tools you use here as you can damage the sealing faces on the case.

    Drive the new ones in nice and straight. Job done. Whilst the engine is out give the bell housing a good clean. If your clutch friction plate is oil soaked bin it and fit a new clutch. Get the complete clutch kit including bearing as it works out cheaper all round

    :)
     
    Borninabug and Foxy like this.
  4. Take the wheel for the thermostat off clean the thread and put it back with some good threadlock. That hole is not a blank it goes right into the case can leak a little from there if not sealed. Check oil pressure switch. Mine leaked from the middle and made it look like it was the oil cooler from below.
    Might as well do oil pump gasket too while it's out. Oh, don't forget a breather gasket they don't come in the kits.
     
  5. It does unless you buy the wrong kit... A T25 kit won't have one in!! :)

    As an FYI it's also good practice to replace the flywheel bolts!! :)
     
  6. Taken the clutch and friction plate off and is contaminated so will change it.

    Took the flywheel off, bolts were covered in oil, is this normal?

    In the pic below, how do I best remove the large seal? And what exactly do I need to change here in order to prevent future leaks?

    Thanks in advance




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  7. Razzyh

    Razzyh Supporter

    I think you just prise it out carefully with a screwdriver.
     
  8. Got it out and behind it were 3 thin metal washers. It doesn't seem to me as if this was ever creating a seal to prevent a leak. Is this set up correct?
     
  9. Don't lose them or bend them. You need to get a gauge and check the end float is correct. Could be that the seals have been pounded out, or it could be that they've just given up the ghost. When you put the new seal in it will create a seal. Hence the name
    :)
     
  10. Btw, clean all that crap off before you go any further
    :)
     
  11. Summary:

    Crank seal wasn't in great nick
    Flywheel seal almost non existent. :eek: just what looked like the remains of a seal and lots of silicone/sealant.
    Rocker cover seals on the way out
    Push rod seals non too clever (lots of silicone/sealant present, now completely cleaned)

    All parts stripped and cleaned ready for new seals & permatex tomorrow evening.
     
  12. Does anyone know roughly how much this work would cost in a garage?
    Sorry to hijack thread but whilst I have the tools, I no longer have a garage and HATE working outside. (It ALWAYS rains on me)
    Mine is leaking in a similar e fashion I believe.
     
  13. £500 +
    :)
     
  14. The thing is, replacing the seals without knowing what caused the old seals to fail is a waste of time and money. Are the rings shot, are the bearings shot?
    :)
     
  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    £300 ish, but what joker says to an extent. Seals get old and brittle, particularly the push-rod tube ones, but worn mains speeds up the flywheel seal wear.
    @Top Banana Racing - the only engine out one is the flywheel seal. DIY the push-rod seals and replace rocker gaskets as part of the job.
     
    Bertiebot likes this.
  16. I suggest you replace the flywheel O ring and felt washer too if you are doing the oil seal (which you are clearly doing). I got my old seal out by carefully drilling a small hole in the seal, screwing in a self tapper and using pliers to ease it out. Screwdriver sounds likely to cause damage to me. I balked at the new bolts as they are £5 plus each and you need 5 ( and I couldn't get them in time), Joker is spot on re. Victor Reinz gasket set as it has everything you need in there.
     
  17. You can get the engine out, flywheel oil seal etc.and new clutch fitted and engine back in within a day easy. I managed it with my 11 year old daughters help about 3 months ago. Pick a dry day and go for it Top Banana
     

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