removing 1600 engine for 1st time

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by VW-Pete, Apr 9, 2018.

  1. stirlingmoz

    stirlingmoz Supporter

    Can’t help with any diagnosis from the photo’s.

    But

    Your fan shroud looks like it’s fitted with a venturi ring (or velocity ring)

    These are supposed to aid cooling over the stock fan shroud.

    Only ever seen one on an injection engine.

    Quite a rare beastie and worth keeping on the rebuild.

    Stirlingmoz
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2018
  2. Yep, worth having :thumbsup:
     
  3. All the cool people have velocity rings
    [​IMG]
     
    Valveandy, snotty and VW-Pete like this.
  4. I love it. I can't help based on the photos.

    But

    And then you go and help based on the photos. Thanks I have volicity ring. Every days a school day.

    I guess it's time to take the heads off and have a proper look.
     
  5. Anyone know where you can get a velocity ring from ? I can only find them in the states.
     
  6. Deimos aircooled used to sell them
     
  7. They did, but they seem to have vanished. Awesome Powdercoat in the US seem to be the only source. Worth having.
     
  8. Yeh I’ve searched for them as I saw it on there site last year sometime but all links to them have gone not sure if they are even trading anymore. Should have bought one at the time but cash was going elsewhere now I want one I can’t find one typical lol
     
  9. stirlingmoz

    stirlingmoz Supporter

    Cool people - see what you did there :)

    Stirlingmoz
     
    paradox likes this.
  10. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    Pretty sure I’ve got one, check that engine there may be one on it
     
  11. I never thought to look on that fan shroud to be honest but if not can you have a look in you very large magic box of tricks next time your there please :)
     
  12. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor


    Will do, deffo seen one hiding somewhere
     
  13. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    White smoke on startup is worn valve guides. Not too fatal. But to fix it need to take heads off and have new guides pressed in Then if they are cracked you might then consider whether its easier to buy new heads. Or just put them back and tell yourself its all OK if it was running reasonably before.

    Mind you it can be worth taking out the valves and using grinding paste to improve the seal and look for pitting on the exhaust valves that tells you they may need replacing.

    If your bus did not go faster than 55mph before then you can tidy up the engine to get back the power. Should be able to do 64nph on the flat with a lot of noise or more...
     
    VW-Pete likes this.
  14. thanks mate some great advice. I will start stripping the engine as soon as I have some spare time and get some pics posted to see what you all think. my bus would do 60mph and felt like it still had more power so it doesn't sound to fatal.
     
  15. two other question I forgot to ask. in the Haynes manuel it says to remove the oil before removing the engine. what's the logic behind this? is it just to reduce weight a little? as my engine is now sitting with no oil is it advisable to add a small amount of oil and hand turn her over from time to time just to insure everything stays well oiled?

    last question Haynes Manuel says to support the gearbox before removing the engine. I did this with some rope. but to me it looks like the gearbox has not dropped at all and the rope has not been pulled tight. is this something you need to do on latebay? Haynes covers the prototype bay engine only.
     

  16. Draining the oil afterwards is a pain unless you have the engine on a stand but you dont need the rope on a late bay as the gearbox has the mounts at the top of the box whereas an early does not...
     
  17. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Don’t do that^. It won’t stay well oiled.
     
    VW-Pete likes this.
  18. Can someone recommend a good compression tester please? hundreds on e-bay not sure what to go for. I have the 12mm long reach plugs if it makes a difference?
     
  19. I have the Draper 37442 Compression Tester, which is quite nice in that it has a long brass part that screws into the spark plug hole. Seems to get OK reviews.

    They're all pretty-much the same, it's really just a pressure gauge and some tubing. Doesn't need to be too accurate.
     

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