Advice appreciated, intake valve on number 2 cylinder stuck open

Mine is over the gearbox, it's not every day I need to get at it.I didn't fancy placing it in the engine bay, if it leaked, split etc it's too close to any sparks and heat for my liking.

 

Jeez now you've done it..

Almost as bad as which oil...

 

Oh no!! Have I only gone and opened another bag of worms LOL

 

I am having the same thoughts -mine is right by the starter motor and a pain to get to without parking on a high curb or van on ramps - I was thinking of putting it somewhere more accessible but not in engine bay as I too worry about heat/ leaks etc etc
I will wait to see everyone’s suggestions

 

General consensus is not to put it in the engine bay.
"If" it leaks, more chance of fire.

More - dont "push" through the filter.
The mechanical pumps are designed to "pull" trough

I "suppose" you could have it mounted to the side of the engine bay before the pump

 

I agree that 2 more joins in a fuel line isn’t a good thing, and I too have my filter under the van, but…Isn’t a lot of earlier engine fires due to the fuel pipe push fit fitting, into the top of the carb, coming loose over time, then spraying the engine with fuel, like your first wee of the day?

 

I do not think the location of the fuel filter matters as much as shutting off the gravity feed from the tank when the engine isnt running for any reason.

Then the fire loses a lot of its fuel.

Either fit an electric fuel pump that features a check valve and or a fuel shutoff solenoid.
Either of these wired to shut off when the engine is not running.

Speaking from experience. A quick squirt of burning petrol (forgot to connect carburettor to the end of the hose ) and half the wiring loom in the engine bay can be put out with an extinguisher and the bus can be back on the road after a day of cleaning up and wire splicing.

 

And the push fitting in the carb problem?
Usually happens in travel. Can’t do a lot about it, from the drivers seat….

 

But when you see the smoke in the mirrors , when the oil pressure light is off , and then shut off the engine, the solenoid or electric pump shuts off and it stops pumping fuel which gives you a chance.. the solenoid is better than watching the tank empty into the flames.


Anyway, I use stainless braided motorsport fuel lines now and a metal bodied filter..

 

Liquid Metal around the push fit fitting is a good idea, too.

 

Mine had already had an extra join as it had a length of copper gas pipe going about 6" from the pump to 6" from the filter. I've invested in some steel braided fuel hose and I'll leave the filter over the gearbox.

On another note, I'm nearly ready to fit the engine and gearbox. Might be controversial but, as I already have the gearbox out, and I have the use of a two poster, could I put the two together and fit as a unit? Or will the gearbox hanging bolts be impossible to get at?

 

Right, the engine is finished!


It's been a long time coming but it's a BIG big day tomorrow...... Gearbox and engine refitting day

 

It's probably gonna be Thursday or Friday when I'm ready for the big restart, fingers crossed but just checking that I've got the right break in procedure. My understanding from the rebuild books and previous threads on this forum is as follows:
1) charge battery, check clutch play, put engine oil in and recheck valve clearances... just so I don't forget
2) set static timing for initial start up
3) remove the HT wire from coil and ground it. Crank the engine over until the oil light goes out + 30secs to make sure I have oil pressure.... Do I need to remove plugs for this step?
4) reconnect coil and plugs and start engine. Once she starts, fingers crossed, set timing with strobe
5) run the engine in neutral at 2000 revs for 20mins keeping an eye on the oil light and checking for oil leaks ...... I've replaced the cam shells and the lifters but not the cam so do I still need to do this step?
6) then go on first test drive, 25 miles max, no labouring in high gear. Accelerate to 50 then let the van slow to 20, 5 times.
7) go home and leave overnight
8) next day, recheck timing and valve clearances, change oil and flush strainer.
9) then drive as normal but no full throttle or constant speed cruising for next 300 miles.
10) change oil and flush strainer again at 300 miles
Is this about right folks or have I missed anything?

 

Overall procedure sounds ok.

Some say that mixing new and old round the camshaft and lifters isnt optimal as the camshaft will have possibly worn (even slightly) to match the wear on the old lifters, and now any high points of the cam have flat fresh metal to lean on..

Plugs out reduce stress on the engine.

Overfilling the oil for initial pump priming can help if you didnt use the grease packing in the pump trick ..then sucking excess out of the dipstick tube with a vacuum pump before running.

If the engine runs well enough on first start, go straight to 2000 rpm run, trying to get to the oil splashing phase ASAP as it is running.

You dont need to accurately set the timing if you static timed first, to get it to run at 2000 rpm off load.

 

Getting there at last! New clutch and starter motor fitted.


Bolted the two lumps together to make one bigger heavier lump



Then after lots of cussing and swearing it's finally in the old bus again!!



So far so good. Still got some finishing off to do but, fingers crossed, tomorrow will be first start up day

 

Things took much longer than expected today, especially that stupid new gear change coupling I bought with a wood screw down the middle of the centre pin, what kind of a stupid idea is that! .... After an hour trying to get the screw to bite, I chucked it and went out and bought a bolt to fit. That was two hours wasted. Another hour or so went on trying to get the sponge seal in place around the back of the fan housing, resulting in an imprint of the carb on the side of my face while trying to stretch my arms around the back with a face full of engine!
Not a good day today but hopefully tomorrow will be a successful start up day.

 

Good luck tomorrow and wear the carb imprint like a badge of honour

 

The gear couplers like that are not good. CSP brand are much better put together (same as e.g CB Rhino AFAIR). Problem is that the pin through the coupler should be 9.5 mm if I remember rightly, the self tapper is long and hard to fiddle in to place.
The rolled steel pin starts at 9.5mm but soon wears down a bit. The CSP uses a 9.5mm diameter solid steel bar held in place by an M6 bolt one end.
.

 

Cheers Mike, yes I think I'll change it for one of those shortly. This fix will do temporarily.