Advice appreciated, intake valve on number 2 cylinder stuck open

I put the CSP shift coupling in mine - really good quality and improved the shift. Well worth it.

 

I still had loads to do today to get the old bus ready for the road and her first test run with the rebuilt engine so I only managed to get onto the first start up in the last hour.
I tried to set static timing as best I could.
I removed all 4 plugs and disconnected the coil then turned over until the oil light went out plus about 10 secs. All good oil pressure seems fine. I then refitted plugs and reconnected coil and tried to start.
She felt like she was about to spring into life but then there was a massive backfire out of the exhaust with some flame.
I've tried minor adjustments to timing but she still fails to fire up. I definitely have fuel and spark at the plugs.
I've given up for tonight and I'm away this weekend so I'll recheck everything on Monday.
If anyone has any ideas I'd be grateful for any advice.
This is how I've connected my HT leads ..... Is this right for a type 1 engine with vacuum advance dizzy?

 

It does sound like your HT leads could be wrong.
TDC no.1 firing stroke like setting the valves. The rotor is pointing where your no. 1 lead needs to be.

 

Agreed , check the basics first but great progress

 

The CB Rhino ones are excellent. I have always used and recommended them

 

Hi Zed... I did turn my dizzy drive round as I thought it was wrong the first time so I wonder if I was right first time? If it is out by 180 degrees, could I put the HT leads on a different way to compensate, just to start her so I know, then I'll fish the drive out again and turn it round.?

 

I do have a new set of HT leads I keep as spares so I'll try those

 

Simply ....Just find the firing stroke on #1 (TDC - both valves closed) and plug in the HT lead for number 1 where the rotor arm is pointing , followed by the leads for 4-3-2 .

Keep it simple and don`t over complicate things by trying new HT leads etc ,,,

 

Ok thanks Lasty, I'll try that on Monday

 

Be methodical about this and if you still have problems you'll know the spark timing isn't one of them.

 

The massive backfire is usually a sign of at least two ignition leads in the wrong place. I lost a chunk of a rusty EMPI exhaust crossing number 1 and number 2 leads .. heard it hit the ground a couple of seconds later in the distance.. never found it..

 

Success!! In my haste to start her right at the end of the day on Friday I had indeed got two HT leads the wrong way around.
She's started up fine now I've set timing properly and run the engine for 20 mins at about 2000 revs.

The only oil leak I have at present is from one of the rocker covers so I'll try to sort that when she cools down. I'll then recheck valve clearances and take her out on a test run (when I've put the bumpers back on).
All looking good so far

 

Good work!

 

Cheers Zed..... Thanks to yours and everyone's advice during this epic long running saga

I did a little test drive today and for a couple of miles she was running sweet as a nut, so I think we are going to be ok.

However, I then got stuck behind some new roadworks trying to get out of town to do the 50mph thing and the throttle started sticking in high revs so I headed back.

I think it seems to be the throttle cable sticking in the tube so I've ordered a new cable and I'll change that tomorrow....... Would have been much easier to change with the engine out. DOH! .... Another lesson learnt.

Nearly there,....... Hopefully do the proper first run out tomorrow, do the 50mph thing and then change the oil

 

It might be worth checking the tube that goes through fan shroud is properly located in the cable outer on the chassis

 

Well done

As an aside I fitted a `helper` spring on the mechanism under the belly pan to help pull the pedal back from full throttle . Won`t cure a sticky cable but eliminates the actual pedal sticking - then you know it`s in the cable run . New cable is a good idea but if it comes out undamaged at least you`ve got a spare to pop under the seat ....

 

I've got the new accelerator cable 3/4 of the way in by cutting off the bent bit that goes on the pedal mechanism and soldering that to the end that goes on the carb.
I've worked it backwards and forwards a few times and it's now moving freely.
However it seems to be stuck where the metal pipe ends and the Flexi hose starts. I've tried jiggling and manipulation of the hose but still won't pull through. All seems free at the tube that goes through the tinware and fan housing.

Is it possible to get the end of the hose out of the metal tube do you know? I've tried pulling it but it seems pretty stuck in there.

Any advice appreciated

 

This is how I've soldered the new one onto the old i.e pretty much in line

 

Managed it but took nearly all day. It was definitely buggered