Best mods while engine out?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by chris_g, Jan 2, 2012.

  1. Hi, i have my engine out at the moment and was woundering if there are any jobs/ modifications that should be done now i have it in front of me?
    I already have a new exhust and heat exchangers, flywheel oil seal, petrol hoses and am working on the tinware.
    Should i do the clutch?, external oil filter?, deeper sump?
     
  2. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    clutch would be a good idea, you'd be safe in the knowledge its been changed.

    Accelerator and Clutch cables, the rest you have identified.

    Check the condition of the petrol tank
     
  3.  
  4. Not sure what engine you have but a new clutch is a must,If you have a t2 motor then a alternator is a good mod!
     
  5. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Or the alternative view. :)
    External oil filter not a bad idea, but it hasn't needed one for the last 40 years...,
    deep sump waste of time and money - completely unneccessary on a std motor and may hit the road,
    clutch - is your old one worn? Clutch problems? If not why change it?
    :)
     
  6. if its a 1600 don't put it back in
    :lol:
     
  7. good time to up grade to a good set of twin carbs while it's all out
     
  8. All but the sump and oil filter , check the clutch but I'd check your tank maybe change the tank out let filter and clean the tank out if dirty .
    Spray wax oil behind the fire wall tank area ? Just a thought
     
  9.  
  10. i reckon just give it a bloody good clean up, and the engine bay too. Just change what u need to, you cant predict the problems of the future. you can change the clutch, or deeper sump, but you might do all that and then the alternator goes. its difficult to answer.

    quick question for anyone about what was just mentioned

    if you have a 1600 twinport, how much faster would a god set of twin carbs make it just out of interest??? can you sum it up simply?

    Regards,

    Phil
     
  11. The clutch seemed good but we had not long had the bus when i took it off the road, only done about 200 miles. How do i tell if it is worn?
    Thanks Niall but I'm quite liking the 1600 motor very easy to work on. :)
    I have just waxoyl behind the fire wall, the last hose I've been waiting for is on its way so hoping to have the tank back in this weekend, i am still worried about the tank but it looks in good nick so wasn't planning on changing it.

    Hi Phil you posted as i was typing, i think your right i will just do what i know is wrong, I'd like to know wether twin carbs make a big difference, reliability, performance, fuel consumption?

    I've still the interior to do so budget getting tight, but i have been following Zeds resto, very inspirering matey.
     
  12. spin the clutch release bearing by hand - this should run nice and smooth. The clutch friction plate material wants to be nice and thick, if you've any burns on it consider changing it. The fingers on the pressure plate should all be even and undamaged. If it was ok before no need to change - they take a hell of a lot of abuse before they start to go.

    Degrease your engine bay, give it all a good clean, sort and tidy your wiring to the engine and back lights etc, do any bling additions you fancy like trick lighting etc whilst its all out, makes it so much easier. Give the bell housing a good clean swap out any worn cv boots, so much easier to do when you can sit and face them
    :)
     
  13. Do you know how thick the clutch plate should be?
     
  14. feck knows. You'll spot if its knackered
    :)
     
  15.  
  16.  
  17.  
  18. Don't forget the little o ring in the flywheel bolt
     
  19.  
  20. Dont forget oil cooler and seals, takes 15 mins to do with it out! just make sure you have the correct seals. :smiley_dog_kiss:
     

Share This Page