Here’s one for the detectives! (Or maybe people who just ‘know’!) Anyone know what brand of carb this is? Came off a 1600 twinport Cheers JP
If the vehicle was running OK with the carburettor on it, then the carburettor is OK. If the carburettor looks almost new with a few scratches, it may have been taken off in disgust.
As long as you don’t have it on your van, And the little crack on the top is nothing to worry about Just superficial I would find a solex and rebuild that personally.
That crack on the top looks like it’s going to let the fuel inlet pipe make a bid for freedom. Was it leaking fuel Jason?
It wasn’t leaking as far as I know, but struggling under acceleration, bogging down in low range, generally being an arse pain! So after checking for vac leaks etc, replacing and checking all other areas and still getting same issue (idled fine, perfect tickover) took this off, rebuilt and checked it, and … yep, same issue so have bought a new carb and with a prevailing wind hopefully it sorts the issue, but…..this is a 76 so who knows!! Was just curious on what carb it was, thanks for all the answers
Good call on the solex rebuild .Although after reading this thread i got sidetracked reading up on Minnow fish carburetors , Bob Henderson and Argyll cars .anyone had any dealings with these carburetors ?
This description also fits a perfect Solex where somebody has messed up the installation over time. Do you still have the stock air cleaner with a flap that can suck hot air with a manifold vacuum feed going to it? Or just an air filter sitting on top. There should be two vacuum hoses from the carburettor - one going to the distributor vacuum capsule., the other to the aircleaner thermostatic vacuum valve and then off to the hot air flap sucking air from down by the No2 cylinder head. ( the aircleaner feed may be off the brake booster port on the side of the inlet manifold, with only one vacuum advance "ported" ( i.e. no vacuum with throttle shut) connection from the carburettor to the distributor.) If you do not have a stock hot air feed to the top of the carburettor then you will get hesitation on acceleration on colder days, and changing carburettor will not change that. The secondary effect is that it get so cold that moisture condenses and ice starts forming in the inlet manifold, and what happens is it starts and maybe runs OK for a while and then fades out and dies after driving for a while, as the carburettor cools down from ambient temperatures. Less of a problem in a bus where the air in the engine bay tends to be warmer. The carburettor works with air going in at 30-35C at idle- as the fuel vapourises the temperature drops and if intake air is too cold, some fuel may instead just sit on the inlet manifold walls rather than reach the cylinders. If the outside air temperature is in the high 20's C , the air in the engine bay is hot enough- why the shiney filter works in Southern California.. Setting up for lean best idle and then opening up the mixture screw a fraction seems to be the best setting.
Thanks for replying, the air cleaner is a stock set up and all connected up ok, the flap was a bit iffy when I first got her but that is all sorted. The port off the inlet manifold is blocked off with a short hose / bolt, is this recommended to connect to the air cleaner?
The vacuum port to the air cleaner goes through the thermostatically controlled vacuum valve on the aircleaner before going on to the vacuum actuator on the hot air flap. The vacuum port on the carburettor going to the valve should suck at idle. The other port for the vaccum advance should not suck at idle but only suck at part throttle. At idle with a cold engine the flap should pull up to let in hot air sucked from by the cylinder head. When the vacuum valve is warm enough around 30C it closes so that the flap drops back to the cold position. While the valve is open because the valve is cold, when you open the throttle, the vacuum goes away as the throttle plate is open, so the flap drops for more efficient cold air at high speed. The manifold is still being heated from below by the heat riser pipes from the exhaust to keep things warmer.
Bit of an update . . . So, popped on the new carb, inlet manifold rubbers / gaskets etc and she runs far far better, bit boggy in low revs in first but I didn’t touch anything on the carb airscrew etc wise so will adjust slightly to cure this little niggle. Just wanted to say thanks for the advice on the air cleaner connections, all working as it should and she runs perfectly (apart from aforementioned issue) Idles perfectly when properly warmed up, no stalling, so a bit of a win for today, and managed to get it sorted before it started hammering down with rain! So thanks again for the advice
