Then it is nowhere near tight enough. When it's correct there will always be tension on the cable against the arm spring and that arm will have moved from that rest position you describe even with the pedal right up - enough cable/spring tension that adjusting the wing nut is difficult and you have to hold the cable to stop it rotating (that's what the square section on the cable is for). The 20mm is moving the release bearing until it contacts the plate and always under tension. Honest, I know what I'm talking about, done this dozens and dozens of times. If I were you, I would stack as many M12 washers on the end of the bowden tube as you can (as described earlier) and then try. Maybe 6-8-10 of them. That serves two purposes - it make the tube a proper s shape which stops the clutch grabbing and shorten the cable by the thickness of the washer stack. I suspect the bowden tubes sold as if suitable for everything probably originally came in different lengths but the shortest works for all... even though it doesn't work without a stack of washers for some - this stack of washers is not an unusual bodge, it's very common. I have about 6 on mine. Don't stack any old thing under the wingnut like you were, do it properly and get the benefit of a smooth clutch. Yet another benefit of that S shape is it will make your cable last because a sudden bend where it enters the bowden tube from the conduit is where and why they break. Hope that's clear, sorry to lecture!
It is 20mm as it stands today - I've also had it tightened to the point where the clutch arm was under pressure before the pedal has been depressed - still no joy. PS: Its not a lecture, its helpful information so no worries
If you have a search on YouTube for VWLife (it’s a US based channel) they have a video which includes setting up the clutch adjustment on a bay. Those guys do some good videos!
Then tighten it more? Or like that again and do the hand test - maybe you were getting there. I'm just trying to stop you taking your engine out for nothing.
Appreciate it - when I tightened it, it was so hard to press the pedal. I'd need a left foot like Schwarzenegger to drive it.......but it still wasn't working. I have come to the conclusion that its got to come out tomorrow - I'll keep you posted
So ladies and gentlemen, after much cursing, pulling and shoving, the engine and gearbox are out. I even managed to separate the gearbox without out too much trouble (although my back may disagree). Attached are some photos - I don't think they're going to win any awards
That input shaft is nasty. What's the bearing like in the flywheel it sits in? At the very least it should have a decent coating if grease. Now you've got it apart, it'd be worth replacing the bearing, they're cheap as chips
I’d take the release bearing off and give the shaft splines a good clean up and replace the release bearing if its crusty. I’d also change the gland nut in the flywheel.
ok dokey - anything else? Do you think it was the rusty splines that made it difficult to marry the gearbox to the engine? Are there any codes that I should be looking for to ensure all the components are compatible? Gearbox to clutch to engine etc
I mentioned to you on your pm where to look for the gearbox code. Once you've got that, theres loads of info out there regarding what box was fitted to which engine. Is there oil in the gearbox? Now's a good time to change it. If you're feeling brave you can always pop off the nose cone and just double check it selects gear. I put a vid on here I think a while ago showing this...
The 002 gearbox code is normal. That looks like what probably happened was the rust on the splines was partly cleared off by you winding it in on the studs. That crustiness was why it was so very hard to put together. And the force of the remaining rust then kept the clutch plate firmly pressed to the flywheel.. So there was no way you could release it from the flywheel with the pedal . Clean the rusty crud off the splines, and just try again. Clutch operation requires that the clutch plate can slide freely on the splines of the drive shaft.
The only codes I can see are 002.301,103 B (with a G above the code and a VW logo below) and CK115 9305. The former stands proud and the latter is marked into the transmission. I have also taken some photos of the clutch........do you see any glaring issues? Thanks
The friction and pressure plates could do with a good clean up, the pressure plate in particular. If the pressure plate is pitted, I’d be tempted to get a complete new clutch. Why is everything so rusty?
