Next up on the research... *Thermostat and associated flaps in the fan housing.* I don’t have any of it. Aftermarket products have ‘issues’ potentially worse than not having them at all. 2nd hand ones likely need repairing/resetting. Mixed opinions out there but the recurring one is “if it was there originally then it should be”. However, I never know how that translates to an engine that is no-longer as it was originally. Thank you for all the great advice and encouragement so far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The same still applies to a re-worked engine: you've still got the same fan shroud, tinwear and case . You can live without them, but your engine will take longer to warm up from cold, increasing engine wear long-term (which is why VW fitted them). FBI VW or Megabug might have some. Thermostats are getting pricey.
Whether the engine is as it was originally or not of course you should fit the thermostat and flaps. And anyone that disagrees is wrong.
That accords with what I thought. This is available: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164652974433 Needs tarting up but if it looks not knackered then i’ll get it. Only finding ‘new style’ thermostats - assume they fit. Is this bracket required: https://www.megabug.co.uk/thermosta...w-type-2-up-to-1600cc-1961-to-1979-6298-p.asp Cheers guys. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Flaps look fine. Buy them! You will need the bracket. New style thermostats won’t fit unless you saw the top off the bracket (or make your own).
Here's another nerdy type-1 tinware thing to worry about. Original main cylinder/head shroud tins had a deflector build inside to push the air out sideways at the head end of the slot the fan blows into. Most if not all aftermarket tin does not have this so all the air is aimed at the middle between the cylinders. I'd rather have these deflectors than a velocity ring if it was one or the other though that's just gut feeling.
There isn't really much if any space for air to even get through the middle of a twinport head to I guess it just bounces about relying only on air pressure without something directing it. Single port heads have quite a large finned gap here, I don't know it that would be worse or better than twinport without the deflector.
Indeed. That’s why i’m never sure how original to modified translates to all associated bits. I wondered, since my barrels are bigger, if the thermostat and flaps would still fit in their original position. Bought the flaps though. The rest can be accumulated over time, as that’s this month’s budget busted. I’m not rich...at all...but, I don’t have a girlfriend so that saves me a fortune! Now I know why vehicles have lady’s names. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Keep at it,,.,...be all good by the time you're allowed anywhere.....and count yourself lucky you're not trying to get a proper type 4 thermostat.(that actually works).....
Yes they will fit and work as intended, the rod slides through the head which is still more or less in the same place it ever was. In fact nothing has moved or altered as far as tin goes.
I've tried to forget the cost of the new awsome powdercoat one I bought was but I think with tax and duties it was about £165. OMG.
[mention]77 Westy [/mention] The engine builder looked at some of his photos and says the rocker assembly looks like “Bolt up shafts with swivel feet tappets.” Guess that doesn’t tell us a ratio and i’m coming across interchangeable terms for various parts - like “swivel feet” could mean ball or elephant. I’ll stop bombarding the poor fella with questions until I next see him. Think I understand that article about Power Pulleys now. I see some relevance to my engine but a measured response will take some time to jot down. Thanks though. Interesting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do you need to know what ratio your rockers are or just want to know? What will you do with the information and what does it impact? I don't know what ratio my rockers are but assume they are 1.1 . I placed my faith in the engine builder and he knows his stuff. Id place faith in your engine builder (unless they are the same people who disconnected your full flow oil system!)
Ha ha no, not the same mechanics as the full-flow incident! Just curious to learn as much as I can now. It’s actually demystifying the previously monstrously frightening thing in the back that made the van move forwards. The more I know the better I understand the rational behind advice. True though to put faith in the builder - sadly i’ve done that before and it didn’t work out. This guy seems to know his stuff though but it’s nice get a second opinion - he, for example, seems less inclined to think of the long term preservation than the guys on here do. I’m thinking long term for this camper. Thinking light years ahead, maybe I can one day help some young foolish buck who bought a dud like me and didn’t know any better. It still amazes me how giving you all are with your time and expertise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I still don't understand loads of stuff, but have learnt loads since joining this forum. I'd owned my bus for about 17 years before i changed the oil and adjusted the tappets myself! Thanks to @Jack Tatty & other helpful people at techenders for showing me how. My top tips would be: Don't worry too much, enjoy driving it, they prefer being driven and reward you for it. Don't buy off the shelf engines (unless recommended by someone who actually has the same one). Use a brand new case if spending lots on machining etc (I didn't). Fit velocity stacks/ air trumpets and decent air filter studs to prevent them falling into the carbs and potentially ruining a holiday. Check the oil level very frequently. Make sure the boot is locked before getting it on with a partner. Don't drive with the handbrake on. Be careful when driving with the pop top up/check heights. Move things from underneath the bus before driving. Remember to remove fuel clamps.
Luckily only a washing up bowl, which Im not a fan of anyway. My partner thought I did it deliberately.
Some cams are designed to get their lift in conjunction with ratio rockers, It means the cam lobes can be less pointy and the ramps less severe to the same lift. It's good for longevity (wear). All type 4 engine rockers s are about 1.4:1 stock for instance. If the cam is designed for ratio rockers and standard are fitted it's bound to detract from the performance as the valves won't be opening and closing as the cam designer intended. Other cams can be perked up a bit with ratio rockers even if that wasn't the original intention but after a certain amount of lift any more just adds stress and wear with no gain. There's a ratio for lift/valve size I think it's about 1/3 e.g. 36mm valve 12mm lift. Don't quote me!
