Propex HS2000E

Seen a similar install before but possibly with one of the smaller heaters where the side of the plinth was partially removed to fit it in that gap effectively. Assume that’s not an option with yours

 

I'm not intending to do that. I've seen it done, I think @Zed did one some time ago, but my unit is too big and it wouldn't offer me many advantages, just lots more work!

Going down through the floor is feasible and I've figured a route for the pipes, albeit, a long route; but going sideways strikes me as possible and possibly preferable.

 

The metal plates for backing motor racing compliant seat belt mounts are only 50mm across. The metal that the reels are fixed to on a bus is typically only about 100mm to a welded seam either wheel arch or bulkhead.

Down where the stalks come through, same again..
So putting the combustion hoses through a hole a similar distance from the seat belt receiver stalk mount should be OK, in that the fixing will not tear out easily.

I expect the belt breaks first as being weaker than pulling sideways on the receiver mounting stalk fixing, or the reel tears out as it is being pulled straight up through the under seat tub panel.

I have once passed an MOT and weeks later hauled the seat belt reel straight up by hand , as the rust gave way.

 

Thought as much!

 

It was someone with a 2kw diesel heater if memory serves correctly
I think I’ve a pic on my phone

 

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Great use of the space I thought

 

I know someone else did it too, but yep, I made the side a hinged door, there's no other way of getting it in there or out again. It was one of those red propex heaters, a 1600 IIRC

Ha! not mine but could have been, that's almost identical, think I used a piano hinge. There is only really one way to skin that cat.

 

I spent the day yesterday building a cardboard box, it was fun though

After lots of measuring all of the options taking into account exhaust, thermostat, 12v, mains and gas routing, the internal space taken up and the amount of work required, I'm looking again at under the van, hence my box building day.

These are pictures of the unit without a box, so there is plenty of clearance from the road imo.



I'm looking at building a water 'tight' box with drain holes and that will add about 40mm depth, still ample clearance imo.

Routing of stuff should be a lot easier and I'll be unpicking the thermostat connector as suggested earlier, to keep holes to a minimum.

Next thing to do is figure the order of bending the metal sheet, as somehow I think it might not be as easy as cardboard! But that's next week's job. Too many other distractions this week

 

Dont forget that suppliers like PCBway also do sheet metal from CAD files. So you might be able to convert your cornflakes box and duct tape to a box ..

At least remember that bends use up some length of the sheet metal so it will end up too small if you forget to allow for it.

 

Thanks Mike, as a back up it's good to know. However, I think I'll try the home made version at my Menshed first. The shed has loads of tools including bending machines, lathes and most importantly, a kettle

 

How are you going to make a water tight box that has drain holes?

 

'tight' as in learning from Propex engineer who advised that original whale boxes had no holes and internal Propex base units failed because water couldn't escape. So current thinking, (subject to change without further notice ) is 'tight' as in sealed as much as possible, but with drain holes angled back away from direction of travel and maybe a flap of rubber that closes if hit by big splash...thoughts most welcome.

I'm not building a submarine but, as an aside, way back yonder I did build a diving torch with a big motorcycle battery encased and it did survive 30m plus and long cave dives...

 

The battery tray in a Bay has one way drain valves that allow water out but not in.

 

Underneath the scuttle panels on some cars there are rubber bungs that terminate with two flat flaps that act as a reed valve
They are supposed to let water drain out but not easily enter.
Now on cars they tend to get blocked up with leaf debris etc but if used on a sealed box you shouldn’t have that problem.

 

Do you have a picture of them fella?
I’ve never come across any before on a bay

 

I can’t find a decent pic on line but they are part number 111801177, also used on beetle heater channels. https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/111801177-rubber-valve-heater-channel-and-floor.html

It’s a rubber disc with a ‘T’ moulded on it to push into the hole, you can just see it in one of the Serial Kombi pics. https://www.serial-kombi.com/en-GB/...-bay-plug-for-battery-tray-drain-hole-n319451

Paruzzi has a better pic and shows it fitted. https://www.paruzzi.com/uk/volkswag...-and-up)-bodywork-interior/front-section/867/

 

They’re called 'Tom’s knob' on an MGB.

 

Cheers

 

Watch out for the curve of the combustion inlet/ exhaust stainless steel flexi tubing hanging down on that underslung arrangement- it doesnt curve very tightly. Like 100mm radius to the outside of the hose.


That heater is designed like most vehicle heaters to sit flat on a floor or wall panel with the heater inside and the combustion inlet/ exhaust connected on the exterior.. it may fit "better" sideways even if the heater casing is up to 100mm wider than it is high..

Just checked its about 200mm across the feet and 130mm height to the exhaust stub end.
So sideways will probably take less height than flat taking into account the flexi hoses..

But it will smack the heater rather than the hoses.

The 1600 I have seems to have the exhaust coming out of the side so it would squeeze in there flat..

 

Good point Mike, but having chatted to Propex, they provided these elbows that minimise the radius for the exhaust and air in connections

https://www.propexleisure.co.uk/shop/22to25elbow/