The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

Performed a bypass operation



Dug the Start-O-Matic out from a corner of the garage

 

Just fitted a custom made gearknob complete with 70's style name font to our 73 T2. I found these browsing a few months ago, and amazingly they are made by a local chap here in Lymington, so after a quick visit and discussion on colours etc, this is what he did for us. Fantastic quality and attention to detail - Built by Basil https://builtbybasil.com/

- and here's his film showing how they are made https://fb.watch/8RF_Few_V4/

Really chuffed with it, and super pleased that it comes from a enterprising young chap in my local town.

 

So whilst spending all of 30 seconds fitting the gearknob in my previous post, I thought I'd take some time to finally getting round to mounting a set of Hella 144's to the front bumper. I've installed a set of H3 LED bulbs from ClassicCarLeds which I like as they draw less power and are a warm white. This is as far as I've got so far - just need to find the best way of getting the wiring loom up inside the front to a relay, tap into the main beam circuit, etc - from the bumper.

 

Make up a loom that tucks under the spots within the bumper, and through one of the end “slots” in the deformation panel. You can route that out in the middle under the front belly pan, then up into the cab. Useful to use some waterproof AMP Superseal connectors tucked into the bumper, so you can just unplug the whole thing if you want to take the bumper off.

 

used it...

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Fiddled with my starter. Recall it was a right old faff the last time.

 

Got my quotation from Bears for the gearbox: basically everything was a bit knackered: Using existing 002 gearbox as a core, keeping same spec.

Sleeve mainshaft and 1-2 and 2-3 shift rail bores.
Shift housing replace as cracked nose, chewed, machine replacement for main bearing thrust plate.
Idler gears : modified dog teeth,new synchros.
Replace 3rd/4th shift fork.
3rd gear new synchro.
4th gear new synchro.
Reverse: new sliding gear
Mainshaft: new slider.
Bearings : mainshaft front and rear, pinion shaft front and rear replace.
Idler gears : new 1st/2nd and new 3rd/4th.
Differential: new.

Total of £650 parts.

All in including labour and VAT about £1200. I agreed with this so he is going ahead..

 

drove it

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Devising some sort of ‘Y’ piece replacement for a bit of heating. The long black corragated piece will be cut to about a foot or so long and rammed into the underneath pipe.

 

Be careful what type of plastic y piece and ducting you use
Some plastics give of nasty fumes when heated.

 

mulled over the solar ive had lay about. put it back to bed
.

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Thanks. The plastic ‘Y’ piece is from a propex heater ducting, the top two parts are black metal expanding ducting from another espacher (?) type system.
Not sure about the long one at the bottom.. I just found it.( I may get some more metal expanding stuff.).

 

That was a future question of mine. I doubt the PO made such considerations so i’ll be ditching his tube in favour of silicone ducting. Like Sogz i’ll have do something DIY to attach it.
Do you know what to avoid? I was just searching anything with a label ‘High Temperature’, but that doesn’t necessarily mean no fumes.


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PVC may/will give off fumes, but the temp has got to be pretty high, higher than the heating can produce. I'd still avoid it.

 

I’m not sure which are the plastics to avoid
But stuff used in blown air heating systems should be fine as they are designed for it.

 

A decent blown air system chucks out 130C ..

 

Good prices. Is the differential knackered or is that a typo and you mean diff bearings? Rare to need a new diff. How's the crown and pinion?


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Are these plugs, in the engine bay, obsolete?






None of them were attached to anything previously.

I could do with decluttering inessential things, especially the computer unit one as it would allow me to pull the loom through and out the way for sanding & painting.

Thanks.


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The last one, the diagnostic box, definitely is.
I just traced each of the cables running to it back to where it exited the loom , cut it off and heatshrunk it.

 

The top one is possibly for the crank/flywheel position sensor, which you won't have unless the bus was injected. Just leave it. Three way one is poss for an external alt regulator? As Jim says, the diagnostic box can go, but insulate any wires you chop off.