Viking Restoration, Blood, Sweat, Tears, Tragik

I mean so the push-rod on the servo that you haven't got points at the pedal. With it straight it'll miss it. There is a bit of allowance, but I think dead straight might not be good. It's only a few degrees off straight, maybe 2 or 3, but at the pedal end it'll miss by inches.

You'll possibly get away with packing one side when you mount it, but it's only a thin tin thing and I'd guess would be happier mounted flat on the plate. Time for another roll around under the other bus...

 

Cheers Steve, had a better look at the other van here, and also a pic on the JK forum, have now cut and adjusted the bracket so the the servo will point slightly in towards the centre of the van, the bracket is offset by 10mm on one side when mounted square to the beam.

So it now looks like this, finished cleaning it all up today and left in in epoxy primer ready for paint.




Small update, but feels like a major milestone, the underneath is painted! Now to get the running gear back in, and get it moving.

 

Glad you got it sorted,I imagine it would have been annoying to find out after it was all painted up.
Welded mine on in situ - what a job! access is restricted and mine's a bit bodgy looking TBH

 

Almost starting to go a bit paradox on this, but cant put the old ropey looking stuff back on looking how it is, so this evening got painting.

Beam painted in 2k satin black, will do the arms later, when I do the bearings and balljoints, will also be fitting new track rods and steering dampener.


And also did the steering box plate/pedals/linkage/handbrake yoke and gearbox hanger.

 

Thats going to look sweet when its all back together dude

 

Done a bit this weekend,

Got the beam back on, with minimal scratching of the fresh paint so all good!

Got the gear linkage back in, with all new bushes, what a faff of a job that is, if putting the 2 rubber boots back in aswell It's my guess that there's alot of buses with these missing as they're a pain in the arse to fit - as have to be done whilst inserting the rod through the rear cross members.

Then set to cleaning up 40 years worth of congealed and dried out oil from the gearbox case, I dont want to go too overboard though, because although it might need new drive flange and nose cone seals doing, as I've never driven it, its an unknown as to whether its a good box or not. So its just been degreased, wirebrushed and blasted with a pressure washer to make it look a bit more presentable, and help identify any leaks it might have.

Also replaced the release bearing and drained the oil from it, which was more like a cheap gravy, and only about 2 litres , but quite pleased that the drain plug was not covered in big metallic chunks of swarf - a good sign I hope.

Had to weld an old wheel bolt to the drain plug as someone previously had done, but this sheared off when trying to undo it, so after welding and applying some heat it came out ok.



To this....How they should be....... the oxidised and corroded look



Also need to get at some point a replacement drive flange plastic seal, as I had burnt it when removing the rounded/rusted cv joint bolts so if anyone has got a spare from a dead box, let me know

 

2 weeks on, so time for an update as feels like I'm making some progress now.

Propex bought, new lower tins and air deflector tins purchased, rear main tin over exhaust and inlet manifold sourced,

Driveshafts assembled with new boots and a replacement CV joint, cheers Silver.

Gearbox given a quick blast of silver aerosol paint to tidy it up and help identify any leaks it might have. also fitted a new release bearing.

New clutch bolted to the engine, heat exchangers tidied/painted in high temp enamel and new lower tinwear all fitted, new alternator pulley and fan belt fitted as old one was stretched to maximum adjustment.





Main wiring harness fed through as far as under the front cab, as need to paint the inside next before pulling it through.

Fuel tank fitted, all breather hoses and filler neck hose renewed, and then removed the tank again as forgot to test the fuel sender - and then discovered it was knackered, so new replacement fitted - £28 from GSF and in stock and on the shelf Painted the fuel tank bulkhead panel before refitting it.





Fuel sender wear on the windings shown.


Engine back in but need to sort some bolts for the engine bar hangers on the chassis legs, as I've misplaced them somewhere



New foam seal and throttle cable fitted, a few small bits and pieces still to get to finish getting the engine done and running, going to refurb the original Solex carb and ditch the 009 distributor for a SVDA. Also tidied up the current exhaust with some high temp enamel paint - as want to buy a fancy stainless one, but cant bring myself to spend another £350 on it at the moment!

Passenger seat swivel sorted, using a larger more beefier swivel plate, so welded it to sit within the seat's runners, I managed to get a small burn (about 3mm) in the back of the seat from a hot nugget, despite covering it well with a fire blanket - but it must have got through a small hole somewhere I'll probably touch some paint on it to try and disguise it!

 

Awesome its so nice when you get to the reassembly stage

 

Man! she'll be better than "Factory" very soon. You'll have years and years of running in her without care! Ah, Ah,aH Congrats! Push on, each job done is done for a long time.

 

Small update as there's been alot of fannying about going on, so the usual crap pics will be kept to a minimum!

Fitted Accuspark SVDA distributor electronic ignition, new coil, plugs, and leads - well happy with the lot for £75 and have at the moment only got it timed by ear, but it runs 100 times better than it has done for the last 3 years - smokiness has gone and it idles aswell, a result! Just waiting for a mate to come round with his decent strobe gun and CO meter so the timing/fuelling can be set in one hit.

New starter fitted, as the recon one I had fitted at the start of the resto 3 years ago gave in, must be the shortest mileage for a starter motor ever! Approximately 2 miles over 3 years backwards and forwards between barn/workshop! with plenty of running it on the starter sometimes if it would'nt start so not surprised really.

Engine had to come back out to refit the incorrect (early) clutch pressure plate resulting which resulted in screeching from the crankshaft and a subsequently destroyed a new release bearing and guide.

Clutchplate on the left good, clutch on the right BAD!


All back in for the 2nd time, and clutch now works, gears adjusted - feels quite abit better with the new bush set on the linkage, but I'll still wont be smashing it into gear!

Nice rear engine tin sourced, stripped, epoxy primed, 2k'd primed and 2k'd, as this is worth protecting!




Engine bay roof sound deadening felt rebagged as the original polythene was failing, and also cleaned up and painted the grilles that hold it up in the same grey used for the fuel tank bulkhead.

Fitted the fan air pipes but not 100% sure on these plastic ones yet, still lots of tidying to do in the engine bay, and bits and pieces to fit, more tinware screws required, as the apparent full set I'd ordered doesnt contain enough to do the whole lot


More of a spot the difference picture



Anyone know if the cluster of 4 wires to the right hand side of the engine bay are all earths, that earth behind the rear lamp? I've lost all the connectors of this one branch of the original loom, but I'm suspecting earths.



Time for a semi in-focus photo



Also realised yesterday that I'm missing 2 bits of tin/air deflectors that sit between the cylinders, so thinking I'm going to run with what I've got until the engine needs to come out again.... as it seems to have managed... for how long is anyone's guess though.

 

Fantastic work Kruger. Your bus is going to be amazing. Brilliant job on the underside (I don't plan on going that far on mine at the moment) Looking forward to seeing it in paint, like your choice of colour

 

Thanks, I was never meaning to go this far with it, but theres still lots of bits I'm not happy with, but I'm trying to hold back on spending much more on it!

I'm hoping to get it in paint within the month - but I think I've said this a few times before!

 

Looking good kruger keep it up fella

 

What's the colour of the 4 wires ? There is an earth spade on the pillar inside the engine bay between the light and the engine lid stay, one of those wires look brown and white?

 

Cheers David, I was wondering if all these 4 wires, are earthed to the spade terminal mentioned, the 4 wires come out of the main loom on their own branch and are;

red/yellow
brown/white (possibly) edit....checked its a dirty yellow!
brown
brown/white dot tracer

Any ideas?

 

Only brown is earth, will have a look but thinking number plate light for brown and white and brown

 

David, I've already got the number plate light wiring on the harness, I'm still stumped!

Been busy this afternoon, trial fitted before paint, but its nearly there...







Its a fairly tight squeeze, and took me all afternoon to fit, I'm happy with it, just got to find a 95mm! holesaw for the main outlet duct.

 

Very clever - I like that a LOT. What a perfect way to use an otherwise useless space.

 

Fantastic

 

Just one question, how're you planning on sealing where the inlet and exhaust pass through into the wheel tub?