The old one was a "B", a 1600 single-port as I recall. Or at least it's a B case - these things tend to get swapped around. Looks like it was previously reconditioned by VW themselves (X on the end). Single port, twin port you can tell from the inlet manifolds - need to know this stuff, chap !
I've had the engine out 6 times over the years and it's probably taken around 2.5 hours out and in. But finally decided to pay someone to do it today to replace the oil seal behind the flywheel. The entire job including replacing the seal job cost £105, pretty good value I reckon
So i will need a new gasket set for the replacement anything else? Can the heads be swapped on a single to a twin port?
Depends how far you're going to dismantle/strip the engine. Heads: depends whether you want a single or twin port, and whether the existing heads are cracked.
just getting close to being ready to install in the van, there is a little play in the flywheel is this normal or should it be solid?
You mean back-and-forth play? If yes, your endfloat needs setting (or the crankcase is knackered). Depends how much it is.
Flywheel off and shim it. If it's too great, it means the crankcase is worn. This might be machinable, but if it's really excessive, the case is scrap. Always a peril with used engines/cases.
If it's ok and correctly shimmed, you should be able to feel a very small movement (a "thunk"), but not see it, if that makes sense. You need a small amount of crank endfloat, or the engine would sieze as everything heated up. If it's in the order of several mm, the case is battered.
I wouldn't shim it. If it has excessive endfloat it'll be the thrust bearing moving. You can't shim that or the flywheel will lock to the bearing. Sadly it's the case that wears rather than the bearing once it comes loose.
So if it ends up a no go would it be cheaper to recon it or buy this http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Sho....S_Engines/TESSILVER/T.E.S_Silver_Engine.html
