Sound, well if anybody needs there ball joint boots installing........ Defo up for my first techenders..... So techenders week before 26-28th but does any go to the farm 3/4th May?
I found the local kwikfit in Edinburgh had the settings for a vwt2 van... my only problem was failing to convince them that there was no difference between the right hand drive vehicle in their program and my left hander....
Had mine set by KwikFit in the past , their laser system will have a setting for 'VW transporter - 1968-79" . It honestly boils down to how good the operator is , first time the guy was spot on and knew about the camber nuts - even had his own 36mm (?) thin spanner and all was good. Last time was an expensive joke , gobby yooof did the setting on a pair of new fronts which scrubbed off the nearside within a few hundred miles . Took it back only to be accused of resetting it myself - Tossers !! Like most of these places , they have the technology but it's all down to spanner holding the spanner ... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
would have been about £70 quid I remember. But like I said I failed to convince the guy that the settings on my lhd were exactly the same as their rhd program so they refused to touch it after taking the initial readings… I went home and did this to get the toe somewhere closer than the disaster it was showing from readings… Checking camber and ball joints is probably my next job after distributor stuff !!
Looking at my pitiful ball joints etc I think I might have to get onto replacing them before techenders!! Are febi the way to go ?
If they haven't got much play in them (I recall VW allow you 2mm, which is quite a lot), I'd leave them: just change the boots and stick some grease in them. Replacement balljoints don't seem to have a great reputation.
Changing ball joints can be an extreme sport. I have pressure welded parts of one of those eBay ball joint kits (used with a piece of 10mm steel I got from a fellow TLBer that provides pressure to the right place) cheese metal started flowing as I got the joints to come out of the suspension arms.). If you find somebody who can do it properly for money.. But then again treating a £50 tool as disposable is still comparable with paying somebody, plus its possible to do it without removing the suspension arms from the bus.
Any idea if my Draper N140 drag link splitter will push out the tapered end or is that studded end bigger than 19mm ?
yeah I’ve seen this previously… had trouble locating the ball joint sleeve with the 2 pegs that fit the slots that the guy uses vice grips to improvise. If you know the kit supplier please let me know…
It all depends on whether the balljoints have ever been moved before. They are much easier to move the second time. Once you have changed them, the hole in the suspension arm gets worn/flowed slightly bigger. Back in the day they sold standard and first oversize ball joints to allow for this. There is a removal technique involving an angle grinder and a hacksaw that works but is very hard work.. I did three that way once and was exhausted by the end of the day.. The problem for me wasnt getting torque on the big clamp , it was the fact that spacers were starting to crush and then flow until the clamp was pressing on itself because a 5mm gap would close up as I increased the pressure. The clamp was bending scarily too.. Its all like the big rear wheel nut. Some of them you end up lifting the bus in the air with the torque from the bar as you jump on it with the wheel chocked. Others just come undone with a sensible amount of heaving.
