Thanks Jim and Mark. These restoration pictures have been a great help. I'm currently trying to remove as much of the surface rust and the horrible Waxol as I can from theain frame. I'll then treat the rust with BILT hamber Hydrate 80 and then etch epoxy it with the HBbody 989. The nooks and crannies I'll just try and soak in rust treatment/epoxy where I can't get too. The frame is in good condition, which is nice, I just want to leave it in better condition than I found it!
Greater minds than mine have thought about the tab issue I mentioned above. VW have put a indent in the door frame for the tabs so that they don't create the problem I proposed. Back to plan 'OUT' then me thinks. I've also spotted a few pin holes that need attention.
Ah yes this rings a bell now. As I had to replace the entire bottom section of my door with a repair panel from Schofields it's not quite as neat as that as the repair doesn't have the indent. Go with OUT in that case and just seam seal and cavity wax the crap out of it (unless you want to be repairing it again 4 years later like me )
I'm looking to buy this Sikaflex 117 for the door H frame etc (https://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect....17-at-metal-force-adhesive-sealant-light-grey). The webpage says is the replacement for Sikabond AT metal. Is this what others have used? Secondly, it there any reason why I shouldn't spread a thin layer of this between the edge of the skin and frame where we normally weld the skin to the frame to act as A) sealant to help prevent water ingress* B) adhesive to possibly reduce the number of weld points? *Waxol etc will also be applied inside as well when all is finished. Cheers
I'd probably avoid applying it before welding, as the heat of welding may just melt most of it. As I'm redoing mine I'm going to apply some all the way round after primer to hopefully stop water getting in (again).
@MorkC68 and @JamesLey and others, I'm puzzled by the H frame attachment. You both show on your threads attaching the bottom of the H to the door frame but I'm puzzled about how you attach to the skin at the top. Mark shows a slightly different top H frame which I presume is left loose and then slots into the new skin and, as show, is plug welded. Jim, you don't show this but I'm assuming you did something similar? You both also show welding the H frame to the door cross beam as does my restoration book. My cross beam and H frame shows no sign of any historic welding here..I'm again puzzled. Thanks as ever. Links and pictures https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/major-the-westies-rebuild-project.65874/page-4#post-1280512 https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/major-the-westies-rebuild-project.65874/page-5 https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/a-restoration-for-iris.53455/page-29 PS I promise to get a life one day
I'll refer you back to this picture. The two sets of holes on the right are those I used to plug weld the door skin to the H section: Regarding welding the H frame to the cross beam, that was just a convenient way of holding the H frame where I needed it while I repaired the bottom section of it:
Thanks Jim. I was being confused by the welds to the cross beam. So, as thought, the H frame is welded to the skin pre assembly of the skin to the main door frame. Brill. Thanks.
Having a jolly time listening to some band, in some small venue, destroying your eardrums ....and having fun I bet Sorry I ask so many questions, I'd rather be thought off as a fool by asking, than not asking and being a fool
We saw Mark Chadwick (Levellers) and our local band, Ferocious Dog, the venue was brilliant, sound was spot on! Dont be sorry asking questions, you know how it works on here, ask more and gain the knowledge in doing the repair more successfully!
Some progress made since my last update. A few bits cut out of the frame and new metal shaped and welded in. The skin has just gone in and I now need to crack on and file, fill and finish!
Looking great Chris. Once you get stuck in it’s not so bad, just time consuming. If you haven’t already it’d be worth checking the fit of the door back on the van before you paint. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Trial fit, which I had hoped would be good as all I've done is re-skin, and so it proved. Looking good to my inexperienced eyes I'm aware that the body work in the bottom step area needs attention, but TE is calling and so this is the job for later
Gaps look good but as I'm sure you're aware, where it can go wrong is in the flushness direction which can't really see on your photos, but you can eye it up and no doubt have! - that kind of warpage can't be adjusted.
Lots of filling and sanding and smoothing going on before I start with high build and then paint (no clear coat). Quick question for the 2pack experts, any tricks and tips specific to 2k to get that nice finish as shown in @Flakey's splittie resto? Thanks
