My type 4 engine build...based on AP 1800

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by paulandchez, Apr 11, 2015.

  1. Right I'm finally ready to start the build. After a couple of minor set backs, I'm now at the stage of assembly :)

    I'll keep this thread updated and would appreciate any pointers etc from any of you as I go along.

    First off was to clean the case half again for one final time. I'd already cleaned in paraffin to get all the gunk off, so this was just to remove any residual stuff. I used carb cleaner and brushes and then rinsed it all off very thoroughly. I also used 800 grit wet and dry to remove bits of varnish from a few areas (before rinsing!). I then used my air line to completely dry it, paying particular attention to the oil ways. Once dry I used cotton buds to clean out the oil ways until I could put one in and it came out clean. This was the result:



    I then started on the crank. First job was to install the bearing, timing gear, dizzy drive etc. I used assembly lube on the bearing. My crank is ground +0.5 on all surfaces, and my case is bored out +0.5 too so my bearing set is 0.5/0.5/std. I used Mahle bearings from Heritage and stood the crank in a flywheel to help stability:


    Next I installed the big end bearings, again Mahle but from Stateside this time, after ensuring the conrods we're clean. These are just dry fit with no lube behind them. The next step some may say is over kill, but this is my first one and don't want to leave anything to chance. So I Plastigauged all 4 big ends. Took a while to get used to it, but managed in the end. All four came out at just under 0.002"


    Tomorrow I'll assemble the rods finally
    bood likes this.
  2. Plastigauge isn't overkill, I'd say it's a good move to make, it satisfies your mind when you know clearances are correct!

    Before you install the crank correctly, fit it into each case half (ensuring appropriate bearings are in their locations when you do the final install) - lube the bearings and rotate the crank, do this in the other case half as it shows any stiff points, if there are any.

    Do the same for the camshaft as well, checking that spins okay & the thrust is within tolerance (the tolerance is on my AP build thread)
    paulandchez likes this.
  3. Didn't have much time on it today, but managed to finish cleaning the other case half and then fit the crank and cam bearings to check for freeness when turning them. I've not installed the cam gear etc yet on purpose as I'm just checking the fit for now. I also used my DTI just to ensure when turning, the shafts were running true. I did this on each of the cam diameters and the No 2 main bearing in both halves. So far so good :)



    More soon :)
    Jestermans and MorkC68 like this.
  4. nice one :D
  5. Have you used an assembly lube??
  6. what do you recommend Paul
  7. Yep....a wise old man once told me to use Torco :D
    Paul Weeding and MorkC68 like this.
  8. Torco

  9. Thanks Paul! :D
  10. Right, got plenty done this weekend :)
    First off, finished the crank assembly. Again, plenty of lube here between the crank and bearings. I also made sure the rod half's all had matching numbers, and made sure the bearing tangs all pointed downwards when installed. Once completed I did a simple noddy test just to see if there was anything obviously wrong, by holding the crank horizontal and seeing if all 4 rods dropped to vertical at the same rate. I think that one came from Tom Wilson's book.

    I took the gear off the old cam, and had the face cleaned up to get rid of the counterbores. I then trial fitted it with the bolts I got and the new oil pump fitted to check for clearance. Good job I did as there was a massive clash! So, off with the new bolts (quick call to Paul Weeding confirmed these bolts were for a type 1) and got some new ones. The new ones still needed modding as the heads were still too big, but I just ground them down on my bench grinder. This was the result

    Paul Weeding and Jestermans like this.
  11. What cam gear did you go for in the end? We decided not to use the cast aluminium one and cleaned the OG (what appears to be Magnesium Alloy) one up; it scrubbed up well and just needs the holes opening out for the bolts and facing up where the rivet recesses are
  12. I spent a while worrying over the installation of the dizzy drive. I kept thinking I'd got it wrong, but in the end I found the best way was to put the drive as per instructions (about 12 degrees off the case line) and then purposely move it whilst pushing it onto the crank so I knew what 1 tooth wrong each way looked like. This then confirmed it was obvious when it was in the right place. I installed the crank first and lined up the two dots before putting the drive in as I found this easier for me. Again.....LUBE!!
    Not a great pic but you can see the crank and cam timing dots (I painted mine with tipex to make it easier to see)

    Here you can see my new bolts just sticking out of the cam gear, which I used loctite 248 on as well as torquing up

    And sealer on the cam cap
    Paul Weeding likes this.
  13. yep me too, and yes it looks like mag alloy
    MorkC68 likes this.
  14. I have a feeling the bolts we are going to use will require a bit of machining too; likewise we will check first!

    Im still scrubbing parts up, we bought a cheap Machine Mart Parts washer, its absolutely spot on :D
  15. Then I cleaned up the oil pickup and put a new o ring on it, then put it into the other case half ready. I then went over everything twice to make sure I hadn't missed anything, and when finally satisfied, I put the sealer on the right hand case half.

    This is where I now have some doubts I've done it right. I carried on and fitted the case, but going back through my pics I'm now wondering if I've messed up. Should I have put sealer around the main bolt holes next to the bearings? I'm worried I've got this wrong, but I've stopped going any further jut in case I need to re-open and clean up again. Like I said I carried on and fitted the halves together, putting sealer under the heads and washers, and nuts and washers of all the through bolts, and gradually torquing them all up in a crisscross pattern.

    So..... @Paul Weeding and anyone I going to have to open it up again due to the sealer?

  16. Out of curiosity, what does the Raby video show when he applies case sealant? My copy is upstairs :eek:
  17. :thumbsup: That's exactly how I do the sealer on the case halves... I also put it under the washers of the 6 main case bolts too.. All as per VW :)
    MorkC68 likes this.
  18. thank god for that....I started thinking the sealant would be on the bearings now.

    That's part of my worrying problem, I've not managed to get it to work yet so I don't know :eek:
  19. Bugger :(
  20. windage tray ?

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