Oil leak type4 engine

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by iblaze, Apr 3, 2024.

  1. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    I seen one on ebay £150

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  2. My VDO oil temperature sender is in the dipstick blanking plate. You have to drill and tap it but it is a good location for the sender as it is out of the way and doesn't risk getting caught.
     
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  3. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Well, that was a waste of time. Luckily, I stuck the oil back in that I drained out, as it's still leaking.
    One of the bolts only tightens so far the goes slack again, obviously been overtightened at some point.
    So I'm back at square one.
    Looks like I'm going to have to drill and tap it to the next size up.
    Are there any other options, guys??[​IMG][​IMG]

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    Last edited: Apr 9, 2024
  4. If you drill it and go up a size
    Would putting studs in make it possible to pull up a bit tighter than a bolt
    Maybe ?
     
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  5. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Ahh I never thought of that could i threadlock a stud in?

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  6. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    I read on the samba it's not recommended to put it there as the oil just sits and doesn't flow their, therefore giving a false reading.
    I've no idea if that's true or not

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  7. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Looking at the cover and the thread being stripped, getting the heater sealed has been an ongoing problem?
    I know you would like to keep it but I'd try another angle rather than fight what looks like every previous mechanic has failed at. :)
    Mick's cover?
    Whatever - helicoil the thread, I'd do both (from state of the cover).
    Have you checked the sealing surface of the heater is flat?
     
  8. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    It does look from the O ring that the fixing holes are totally filled with oil, so the seal is the screw heads on the metal case.

    You cant get enough squash to crush copper washers before the aluminium gives..

    You might be able to clock it a few degrees and start some new threaded holes in the engine block, as the O ring goes outside the fixing holes, and the angle of the cable inlet isnt critical.


    Or use helicoils in the original holes..

    Fit studs like VW would have if the heater were part of the standard equipment, use Dowty washers with built in lip seals top and bottom and acorn nuts over the ends.. or while its all oil free coat both sides of flat washers with non setting engine block join sealant and fix it with the screws.
     
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  9. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Yes, it's flat.
    Using helicoils, I'd have to drill and tap the hole anyway, so why not just drill it to 6mm then tap it to 7mm?
    (It has 6mm bolts at the moment)
    What would I drill it to, for 6mm helicoils to fit?
    If the heater won't seal I assume micks cover would have the same problem.
    I am tempted though with putting a temp sensor on it.


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  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    7mm makes ongoing adaptions needed. Will a 7mm bolt fit through your heater or a cover?
    You need a kit for helicoils.
     
  11. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Half the problem is the heater holes are bigger than the 6mm bolts.
    How much bigger I'm not sure I didn't measure them.
    I've just been looking at a helicoils kit £30ish.

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  12. Dipstick blanking plate ? My 3 type 4 engines have the genuine Porsche taco plate for the VDO sender with no problems
     
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  13. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Just the fact they have clearance for any thread means oil will leak past.
    You could try filling the dry degreased hole with some kind of sealant round the screw to create a plastic "plug" that cures round the screw. E.g some 120C capable silicone sealant .
    Insert screw, gun in sealant round screw, tighten.
    There is a lot smaller choice of M7 hardware than M6 hardware out there.
     
  14. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    I've took it off again, had a look at the threaded hole in the case it's 14mm deep and doesn't go all the way through is it possible to drill and tap a blind hole?
    Swould I still be able to fit helicoils?
    I'm tempted to just get m6 bolts cut the heads off and glue them in like studs with JB Weld.
     
  15. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Degrease - like spray carb cleaner up the holes and wait, then the JB Weld should hold.

    Its called a bottoming tap for blind holes. Less taper at the end.
     
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  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    The end of the helicoil tap will have a taper but I'd guess you'd get 10mm of your 14mm tapped which I'd suggest is plenty.
     
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  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    @iblaze, if you are new to helicoil inserts and see them as e.g. "m6 x 1.5" it means the length is 1.5 x diameter so that would be 9mm in this example.
     
  18. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Ahh I see. I had no clue
    I've ordered a set.
    I've also bought the sump plate from @3901mick

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  19. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Helicoil in heater plate sealed so that oil leak is sorted.
    But I've found another one coming down the back of the engine/moustache bar.
    Crankshaft oil seal?

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  20. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Dip stick bellows?
     

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