Hoover bit possibly, although the ones I’ve seen tend to rust in half for some reason. The original VW velocity rings were actually part of the later fanshrouds, so not really separate. @paradox has got a real one.
Only three letters. What ___? You can’t have larger diameter cylinders without them being closer to each other so inevitably there will be uneven cooling and expansion around the circumference. 94mm cylinders are the same diameter as a 2.0l Type 4 but they’ll be closer together - Type 1 bore spacing 112.5mm, Type 4 124.5mm. Probably these: https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/product/ac10930930/
Won’t additions like these only help keep the oil cooler, rather than the Heads? Funny, not funny, but in 3 years of having the previous incarnation of this 1914 i’d never heard of, nor had it mentioned, that there could be an overheating issue. It’s not until specifically searching that you read anything about it, after stumbling upon it on another thread. Lots in America run a 1914...but that doesn’t mean they aren’t destroying them readily too and just keeping shtum! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That makes dimensional sense. Obvious really isn’t it. You’ve stumped me though. Is the missing word “cam”? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The hoover bit stops air escaping from the bottom of the shroud around the oil cooler, and should really be there, although most folk’s have probably vanished. Also (with the extra bolt) stops the shroud ballooning out. The velocity ring acts like a carb ram pipe on the cooling fan intake, so should improve efficiency of cooling over the heads. I’d think it was mumbo jumbo, but VW themselves did add them, on later injected Beetle fan shrouds I believe. Can’t imagine them adding stuff that didn’t do anything. Para will post a pic of his fancy one, I’d imagine.
Just looked at their website for now, but will bell the tomorrow. Not seen their site before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You had me at “...improve efficiency of cooling over the heads.” Why don’t I just stick a couple of 12v in-line fans under there, ducted from the sides in front of the wheels? That’s a semi-serious question. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
They can be housed inside a fire retardant Dibond box. At 235cfm off only a couple of amps each side they might do a job. Just brainstorming really, but I have always wondered why additional cooling isn’t used - I suppose the answer to that is that it’s not necessary...mostly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well that’s the ‘unknown’. I don’t know that it will. The impression I got from the 1776 Engine Build thread was that a 1914cc was a bad idea for Cylinder Heads. Curiously my engine seize was not to do with the heads, barrels & pistons (heads changed because there was an older crack in it, had bent fins and the exhaust & inlet valves were too big and close together...and we reused the barrels & pistons), but just down to the unsolicited customised Full-Stop Oil Flowless system! I drove that fairly ignorantly of temperature and the nuances of an aircooled engine - much like I’d drive a car. It had a terribly inefficient exhaust too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Interesting! I’ll have to read it again to fully grasp. Previous engine: I’d noted that if I was doing 70mph @ 3,800rpm the temperature would rise (eventually levelling off), but if I stayed in 4th gear and dropped down to 65mph @ 3,600rpm the temperature would immediately drop. Figured this was some sort of ‘sweet spot’ for it. That, however, was taking a temp reading off a bolt on the alternator stand - where my previous mechanics placed it, so i’m not sure if that was telling me anything useful or not. •80mph (top speed) @ 4,200rpm -I was told never to hit 100• on that setup and never did. -The highest temperature I had was 90•, and that was crawling in to Crawley on a hot day. It’s when the fan speed drops to a point where it no-longer effectively cools the engine that concerns me. Having read that the fan produces 1200ish cfm, I figured an additional 470cfm produced independently of the engine by in-line fans (with not much additional heat) would help in a crawling traffic scenario, and when parking (as temp would rise then too). I have so many questions! Forgive me! I try to learn as much as possible on my own before asking them (which at least arms me with knowledge enough to understand a response), but there are always gaps in information I can’t seem to fill. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very sexy Nice colour combo. I now, of course, want one! Just reading up on the air cooled system - got carried away by the gauges for too long. I didn’t actually realise how much of the drawn in air was distributed to the cylinders. Had it in my mind that the greatest % went to the oil cooler. If this is correct Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Assumes your fan housing is either an original or a clone which has the correct vanes inside.. The waste heat from the engine will be coming out of the exhaust and the heads. The oil cooler is only dealling with a part of the heat, from the pistons and cylinder walls and the friction losses causing heating around the engine.. Its why fitting an off board full flow oil cooler / filter is as much about keeping it clean and reducing wear as keeping it cool.
I think you're obsessing, fella Your engine will get plenty of cooling air at idle. The temps you mention (although measured in a far from ideal place) are pretty low. Oil temps on a type 1 with worn bearings (for some reason) can easily reach 110*, even 120*. Ideal revs for a stock 1600 type 1 are about 3500 - 3750 in my experience - you can tell it doesn't like to rev more (although it can).
