Thing is I’m not allowed to weld anymore so it’s going to cost me £50-£100 to have that failed glued joint welded and even then it won’t look right because of the shape of the repair panel. I’ve also got a crack starting near the rear where the top of door has been flexing. Like you say panel van doors are not great when they have been cut out for a window. Im thinking it’s probably better to dig deep and buy a rot free/un repaired microbus door than spend that money on welding and a lot of filler The prices are hard to swallow nowadays mind.
Ah right , forgot about the welding thing On the bright side a good rust free door will save you lots of work ??
I don’t think you’ll weld that joint successfully, the bonding will burn expand , contaminate the weld and bow the door more , either reskin or buy a good one but I’ve bought ( then returned) a couple of rust free doors as they still needed a lower section welded in they were still £400-600
I’ve painted the outside of the cab door. It’s turned out terrible and there’s been some strange reaction between the filler and paint I’ve never had before I wish I’d never used this paint it’s been nothing but awful to work with
Oh dear, that is quite a reaction, definitely a sand off job! Bad luck mate, who would have seen that coming?
Agreed, it a right old pain when it doesn't work. Do you know if it is the paint or the filler or primer?
Filler,primer and paint is the same as a I’ve used before. The only difference is the thinners I bought a new tin from the farm merchants the other day same as I’ve used before. I’ve just had a look at it and they have changed it It’s no longer pure xylene it has ethylbenzene in it now so maybe be that’s causing the problem. When I was rolling the paint on it seemed to raise the filler slightly then it’s sank afterwards. I can’t feel the difference in levels but I can definitely see it
Sorry to hear that Para! It's even more frustrating when it's not your fault. I had a similar feeling when I painted the baja's chassis with epoxy and had been sold the wrong hardener so it never cured! 2 days spent stripping it back to bare metal by hand after having paid to get it media blasted.
It takes a chunk out of your soul when things like that happen. I’m hoping it’s going to magically disappear when the paints cured but I highly doubt it will. The annoying thing is that the paint isn’t easy to flat back. Even after a few years of curing it balls up and clogs the paper.
Chin up, you know what we always say’ every day is a school day’ I suppose you could wait for it to cure and see how it looks, my suspicion is you won’t be contented until it’s right. Maybe another type of thinner may strip it?
Apparently the filler hasn’t sank The filler has absorbed the paint pulling the paint level down compared to the surrounding paint over steel. I’ve not had the problem before so it must be the new thinners. It’s been recommended to flat it back and seal it with epoxy primer then start again. I just need to find out if 1k rattle can epoxy is any good.
