The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

Get them re-plated

 

Rerouted the heater hoses above the chassis rails. In the middle its in the way of the gearbox coupler but as there is a joiner in the heater exhaust hose right next to the gearbox coupler hole in the Y piece and the intake hose just needs a Stanley knife, it wont stop me for long.

 

Mike, I may be wrong, but I understand that the steel exhaust pipe does get hot and might need a bit of separation from the plastic combustion air feed pipe to avoid it melting.

 

No, its not that hot, I can hold it after a short distance.
The whole thing runs cooler than a diesel heater.

We shall see.. if the plastic/cardboard/ aluminium composite annoys me by melting I will just replace it with some neoprene tube .

 

Good to know. I'd read it gets hot but, as you say, we shall see

 

Did you plate those yourself? I've had a nickel plating kit sitting in the garage for the past 5 years. Might give it a go. Might.

 

Your fingers are mega heat resistant though.
I winced watching you touch a log burner chimney.

 

The exhaust feels about as hot as the cabin air coming out of the diesel heater on my boat..

 

Na, I took it all to “Ferndown finishings”. I gave them a box full of bits for the bay and they did it all for about £40 I think.


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Actually connected the transmission gear change shaft to the gear shift linkage on my tod.
Ormiston wire and all. Need to find a decent seal that will fit.
Magnets might have been used.

 

Blood, sweat and lots of swearing later, I've managed to build my gas locker and afaik, the pipes don't leak....I will beg/borrow or steal a gas tester before I use it. Now to route the copper pipes under the van to the Propex and BBQ point.

This was a lot harder to build insitu than I expected. It is only a temporary solution depending on how much gas we use and whether or not we go for an underslung, internal refillable or keep this style if cylinder in a couple of years.



I know it's not metal as they should be, but it should be mostly gas tight, once to door is on

 

Provided most of the gas goes down the drain you are Ok..

I have been drooling over the smaller internal refillable cylinders, but I expect in the long run that (unless so many BYD Dolphin EVs are sold that filling stations switch back to LPG because they are scared of badly made cars blowing up on their chargers and wiping out the forecourt) the gas fill up will only be available at regional gas depots.

I am currently looking at my Camping Gaz 904 's and realising that small gas canisters like that are the way backwards as well. The 907 size less so..

[You gave yourself a lot more potential points of annoyance by not using a pipe bender for some of those corners, and adding other connectors in places where pipes could have gone through grommets.
Yes compression fittings look cool, but can be annoying until you get that balance between sealing and crushing the olive..without TLB PTFE.. ]

 

I count at least 14 leak points outside the locker though.
Mike's right, you have a helluva lot of compression joints.

 

I tried bending but I'm not very good and the tight bends I needed resulted in a lot of duff bends even with an external spring bender. I should have bought a better pipe bender, I agree, but no PTFE tape in sight and hopefully no leaks. What's done is done and may, as mentioned end up being temporary...I do miss my old underslung tank

Steve, you surely can't count the manifold and bilkhead joints, no other option there

 

I've got 4 inside my boat.
Admittedly it's just for the cooker.

 

I think my pipe bender came from the Middle of Lidl and it managed something like 25-30mm radius bends in 8mm pipe.

I would have tried to imagine 3D wiggling and sneaky bending to avoid joins as far as possible.
Every connection is 1 or 2 possible leaks.

I really like my gas detector with the sensor on the end of a flexible stalk.. it lets me check compression joints I cant see but only feel, like the joint at the back of the heater, after I had to disconnect the heater to take it out to get to the air intake hose underneath it the other day.

 

Would you be so kind as to bring said sniffer and bender (great name that!) to TE and I can see a job for me forming in my mind .

 

Pop down screw fix and buy an aerosol of gas leak detector spray,
It will pinpoint teeny weeny little leaks you don’t need a sniffing thing and
Don’t use fairy liquid

 

Will do.

 

But if its round the back and you cant see 50% of the fitting even if can you get your head in or phone in because its underneath.. the worst one is just about touching the wheel arch at the back of the heater.