The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

The space heating pipe squashes down to quite a thin oval shape, but stays nice and round each end for the concertina hose, and the heater pipe ‘Y’ piece.It’s a tight fit, but fits.
I guess we shall see.

 

Continued with the repairs to the tailgate. Removed all of the anti rust paste and sprayed the bare metal with weld through primer whilst I wait for the metal sheet to arrive to start welding ....re-reading the restoration book about what to do next....I'm clueless around bodywork

 

Best place for them, that’s exactly where my worry gauges are


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pumped grease into the beam, unfortunately the squeak is the offside ball joint.. its vile

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Today I was going to pop these bungs/plugs out in the rear wheel arches.

Sides of rear wheels:


Forward of rear wheels:


I thought better of it when they put up a fight, with the likelihood of me winning such a battle but at the expense of their existence.

•Are they supposed to just pop out with a flat head screwdriver, or the such?
•Are they for squirting cavity wax through?
•If I destroy them, can they be replaced? I’ve searched (probably not using the correct term) yet not discovered them.

Thanks guys.


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Yes
Yes
and Yes

You can get underseal bungs to replace them. Can't remember the size.

 

Perfect reply.


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I’d skip the pointy one. You’re lucky actually, as the holes for waxing in the double-skinned arch (a bloody terrible idea, VW) are commonly where the rot starts, ironically.

Plugs are available on fleaBay.

 

Are you sure it isn't the rubber bit in the shock come detached from the inner steel tube the bottom bolt passes through - very common, creaky groan. Never heard of this with a ball joint. Easy to find out - take the shock off and drive over a few bumps.

 

You’ll probably destroy the plugs in the rear arch getting them out, drill a hole and pull them out with a self-tapper. They’re part number 211-809-673A https://www.bus-ok.de/Type2-bay-and-Type25-blanking-grommet-OEM-Nr-211-809-673A-Exclusive

The pointy rubber one (p/n N0200223) is probably pushed in from the other side.

 

I wondered if they were a 2-part piece.
Thanks


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Forgot about that: they are in two pieces. But...suitably-sized bungs will do.

 

Usually seeds are small rodent storage sites. Some of the rust flakes will be due the effect of their urine and water in their bedding.
Expect there to be something more substantially like holes in the near future - dont spend too much time on making the outsides too pretty as the paint may well be all that holds it together soon.

 

Jack up the side with the squeak.
If you can get the ring clip off that secures the ball joint boot without poking it through the rubber, get it off and then pull the lip of the boot off.

Wearing a pair of Marigolds, get some molybdenum sulfide grease, rub it onto exposed parts of the ball, and try to get it in between the ball and socket.
Then use another jack to work the suspension up and down.
Repeat, then pack grease in the boot, and re-fit the ring or give up chop the ring apart and use a cable tie.

I had an annoying creaky ball joint, nearly new, gave it that treatment and it stopped creaking.

 

Bought seven cans of mixed rattle paint and some thinners and a can of weld through primer. Came away £108 poorer.
Gradually fitting another 2 thermocouple channels to the engine bay computer - I am going to measure the temperature of the air above and below the carburettor, out of interest.

Then move on to seeing what the heat risers actually do on my exhaust , which according to the Samba cannot provide heat. However I have seen oil spills smoking off the heat risers near the manifold, so I think they get hotter than the Americans believe.

Starting a plan to try and patch up the floor on the nearside just in front of the rear wheel arch. It has rotted out from underneath with water coming through the inner tub.. I think I have to cut away a bit of the inner panel to get to all of the rotten area, then weld the inner panel piece back in.

 

So you are saying 10 coats of paint will hold it together.


Luckily no nest material has come out, but it’s not looking pretty inside there. Still, it’s been bashed about as much as a game of Smash the Gopher would be, so the holes materialised already are all i’d expect…for now.

With flakes out at least I can waxoyl inside it with the vague hope it adheres to something solid.

The seeds hadn’t germinated, so that can be taken as a good indication of how dry it has been.
Well, that’s what i’m telling myself.


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The white/clear plastic ones
The centre part prises out so you can cavity wax inside then replace the centre part of the bung.
If your careful and steady removing them they will be able to be reused.
If your going to prep and paint in there then remove the outer section as well so paint gets under where the bung fits.

 

Cool. I’ll give that a go.
As @snotty said, they’ve all rusted a bit around the bungs. I guess you need a 180• nozzle to spray that bit…or bungs below to spray upwards. Funky ones on the outside to spray inwards.

Ok, let’s face it, twill never be rust free. Apart from on the advert.


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Dropped it in for MOT (passed). For the first time ever I didn't wait as I had to go and move a trike.

Its much better going back rather than pacing up and down like an expectant father.