vw t2 1974 restoration

My issue is that the first top hat was cut at the bottom for the pipe and gear stick so it bends a bit. I did have the top hat in first and clamped the outrigger to it. I will have to get an angle iron straight edge or something to use new when I fix it up. This is why I am only mocking it up and using tiny rivets for the sills so I can check it. I use the cross member as reference for the outrigger. I think I will get there eventually?

 

A lesson I learned the hard way is that if things move when you clamp them, they are either not the right shape or in the wrong place. The ideal is clamp just to hold things in place while you weld them. Oh yes, a straight edge is invaluable!

 

Does this JK inner and middle O/S sill look wrong as the middle overlaps the inner?

 

should I return it?

 

If it's also a little too long just bend the bends some more. Few parts fit out of the box - that's your job.

 

The pressings and shape is not good at all and the curve does not follow the inner sill curve thus the middle sill incorrectly overlaps the inner sill. It is a cheep preservation parts brand.

 

I think that's just how it is. Originals are nice curves, aftermarket are hard angle bends. It's a bit pathetic that they couldn't match them but either you send it back and risk getting another the same or worse or make them fit. You could for instance half partly or wholly straighten the bend that's in the "wrong place" and make one in the right place. By wrong place I mean you should hold them up to the van and make a judgement as to which seems to fit the van best and adjust the other one.

Or yes you could send it back but isn't that a faff when you could just get on with it? You have plenty fabrication skills by now so why not treat them as raw materials that are a good start to make the pieces you want. That's exactly the judgement I made 9 times out of 10 - what's quickest and least hassle - often that was to make it fit, it's why there used to be a trade known as fitters.

 

I will give it a go. I should off just bought the auto craft ones. I know panel beating is a craft and it takes a lot of experience to do it properly.

 

This is just hard bends. Do you have a good solid mounted vice?

 

yes I do

 

JK got back to me and said that the part has actually been incorrectly manufactured. I will go with an autocraft.

 

Is soda blasting a good idea? I have been told to not use it as the soda creeps inside the cavities and causes rust and issues with paid adhesion. The guy told me about acid blasting. I want to finalise the body structure first, - new a pillar, sills, threashold,, outrigger and top hat so i can give it some strength before I put it on the rotissary. Any ideas?

 

https://www.mediablast.com/blog/2017/01/05/soda-blasting-basics/

From reading this, it looks like soda blasting is only for smaller components in a blasting cabinet. If you used it in a larger space to do bodywork or chassis blasting, the dust would end up everywhere!

 

I particularly liked the blast cabinet in that article!

 

what would be the best to blast a kombi? How did @JamesLey do?

 

I only got the bottom of ours blasted to save me weeks of work. The guy I got in to do the job did the whole underside in about 90 mins, I believe he used the usual ali oxide.
I also got the baja chassis done last year by a local company. £150 for the whole thing blasted so it was a no brainer!

 

did you then use ali oxide for the whole of the baja including the body?

 

Just the chassis.


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So by the looks of things, I seems better not to use soda even on the panels. What should I use to blast the panels?