Monster engine - i'm going to do it this winter but how? Calling TYPE 4 Guru's

So, I have enough cases, a few 2 litre heads, some 2 litre cranks and rods, some 1700 and 1800 crank and rods.

I want to build something up with a bit of extra HP, normally aspirated, enough power to push a heavy bus along for normal cruising with low down power for the hills and a steady cruising speed of 65 on the motorway in peace and quiet. I have a 2 litre box ready to go in the van.

I'd also like it if I could strip the heavy interior out and have a crack at a USB sticker

Hit me with what I need;

I've read some of the stuff on various sites, am I going to get the job done with a bigger displacement with minimal other work?

I see 103mm pistons are available to take a 2 litre up to 2366 which will need head and case machining - are the standard crank and rods up to the job too or will this all need to be changed? Will the normal bearings be suitable?

I can't find any books on this to read so any help appreciated

 

you will need the 2.0 crank as it has a 71mm stroke as opposed to the 66mm on 17&1800's
the rods are also different and will need to be 2.0 aswell
you can only achieve 2366 this way as the stroke will be too short on your crank

 

any way, just a porsche engine, they fit straight in and it's only 4 bolts

 

ok, so I have a 2 litre case, crank, rods. I have the heads so these and the case will need to be machined to take the bigger B+P's.

So, put in a different cam, is it then just a simple case of using stock valves, head gear and bearings mated to everything else to get what i'm looking to achieve or do I need everything else to be beefed up too. I know its not something to do 'on the cheap' but flexible useable power without having to shell out an absolute fortune.

And what about longevity - will engine life be shortened?

 

Bigger valves will help it breath better dude

 

A Rover V8.

 

as paradox said, larger valves and seats will help, as will smoothing off the ports. you need to remember that as the cc is increased you need to flow the fuel/air mix and exhaust gas in and out too. too small valves could cause a restriction in flow.
what are you planning carb wise?
the cam will need to be matched to the rest of the set up when you know the rest of the spec

 

i'll carry the carbs over which are 40mm dells. Looking on the statedside website I might be better off just selling off everything that i've got as spare parts and buying one of his off the shelf

 

but where's the satisfaction in that?

 

you could be right. I have to think about cost too though as well as time

 

1800 heads have bigger valves than 2litre ones, could go ratio rockers instead of cam or aswell as, nitride or tufftride the crank( though dont know how much this costs now)

 

I need to check what heads I have on my engine - although mine is an 1800 its an AP (remanufactured) so the heads could be 1700. Anyone know the s/n?

I have some info from a pro with advice on what to build to suit my day to day use and maybe have some fun too;

2056cc with Keith Black pistons and Eurorace hard liners and Hastings rings. A web grind heat treated billet cam with hard lifters. Heads to be reworked with 42 x 36 1 piece stainless valves and chromoly valve seats. This should develop around 110hp torque curve 2-4000rpm and cost me about £1k.

I'm getting excited now

 

I would if I had £2k to spend. I've to save first then find the time to do it

 

thanks Jan. I've just bought this off Paul Weedings fish... Not sure if that will do, but it seemed to do him ok on the strip

 

here you go

 

Here's how I'd spec a 1974cc or a 2056cc engine

flat top pistons
eurorace H grind, or web 86a cam
heads reworked to 42x36 or 44x38
ARP con rod bolts - end to end balance the rods too
new oil pump
dynamic balanced
44idfs or 44 dells - despite what everyone says, 40s are a little small for a 2l engine... especially when you've upped the intake valve size.
and for a real power gain a 4-2-1 exhaust system