Here's another question...... While we are here.... In the picture I have the rotor arm set to number 1, pointing to the bottom right, what does the other part on the top left do? Just checking I'm setting the arm up properly to number 1?? If that makes sense??
You just need piston 1 at TDC with both valves shut and the rotor arm pointing at the lead that goes to piston 1.
I think you are confused. The timing has nothing to do with the tappets. If you can set to 7.5 degs BTDC do that. If it won't run it's something other than the timing. Check the leads are on in the right firing order. I feel you've gone in for a mega-fiddle when there was initially only a simple problem.
I've done that, just my timing mark is way round to the left. I reckon blue thing is right about the dizzie being 180 out. Perhaps I'll have to set it up as near as poss. Gonna remove the fan and check the timing mark as per ratwell. May be that he mark is wrong on the flywheel, I dunno, trying to start with basics before I muck about with the carbs.
I can't set it anywhere near there as the mark is way round to the left. I'm going to have a look as the rear of the flywheel mate to check for the mark as I don't think the mark on the front is right. Everything else seems to be right, plugs leads etc all in the right place and secure. The reason I mentioned about the valves was because if I've set them using the timing mark on the flywheel and this mark is wrong then logic tells me if the mark is wrong then the valves will be set wrongly too, that was all. Anyways, will have to find the timing mark properly and see how I go from there, fingers crossed it'll be sorted easy
Get back to basics. Does your engine have a timing scale? Can you see the timing notch on the flywheel., does it run?
Got a timing scale, problem now is that cos it's a type 4, I've found that the timing mark should be on the back of the flywheel so going to have to take it off and make a corresponding mark on the front. As the dizzie appears to be 180 degrees out its time to find the mark for sure. Unless ofcourse it's something I'm going to be able to see through the inspection hole in the top of the fan housing.
Nope I've only got marks from what I believe was from a puller. http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FindTimingMark.html
the timing mark is tiny, like a dent int the back outer rim. I couldnt find mine to begin with. probably quite easy to mistake for a dent you made with the puller
I didn't use a puller, I'm assuming, dare I use the word that that's what the five marks are from either side of the fan. I'll check again but think I've worked out from 42mm and the extra hole on the rear. Cheers
It wasn't far out to be fair, a few mm. Anyway, started it up and still sound like a bag of Marmitee. Had enough for today
One thing at a time, it's all progress. So you're saying you've double checked the timing mark, you have a timing scale and so you have confirmed that you set the valves correctly? That's: Valves - check Timing - check Check, check and double check the order of the HT leads. It must be something simple, it ran ok before? Look inside the distributor cap. It's not unknown for the magnetic collar for the electric ignition to prevent the rotor arm seating far enough. The effect is the rotor arm hits the top of the contact and twangs about on the advance + it doesn't fit onto the slot properly. Cure is to sand 2 or 3 mm off the bottom of the rotor arm. Carbs next...
